March 11, 2013 3:53 PM (PST sort of ) Quality Inn Room 102 Winslow, Arizona
Up at 7---beautiful day, cloudless, sunny, 39 degrees, so we decided, in Amy's words to " blow this popcorn stand!". Got on the road by 8:30 and headed west on 60 toward Magdalena. We've been this way before several years ago and returned from the Painted Desert/ Petrified Forest this way 2 years ago. As we drove along, Bill told me that the nicotine patches he's been wearing in an attempt to kick the habit give him dreams--not nightmares, but strange dreams. Seems last night he dreamt he was with a bunch of guinea pigs or some animals that snorted. He was quite amused when the dream woke him up and the noise was my snoring!!! LOL Very funny, Bill!
I found directions to a ghost town, Kelley, just outside Magdalena and so we detoured on to FR 505. Now in Texas, FR means farm road, here in New Mexico it means forest road. Kelley is about three miles off the paved road but after 1 mile on this Cibola Forest road we began to worry that we were going to blow a tire or find ourselves unable to turn around, so we abandoned the venture and got back to civilization. Strike one!
http://www.westernmininghistory.com/towns/new-mexico/kelly/
www.ghosttowns.com/states/nm/kelly.html
www.youtube.com/watch?v=47_JwpNptis
Having watched the second link, I think it best we didn't continue--it would have made me sad, I think. On we continued, 'til we came to the Plains of San Agustin, home of the VLA, or Very Large Array. Gloria wasn't impressed--she says " big deal, a whole lot of satellite dishes" --and she is right. However, any kid who ever studied General Science in a certain period of time, remembers the black and white picture of this strange looking group of " things" spread out as far as the eye could see. No one had satellite dishes then or even knew what they were. They looked alien and since they were being used to detect signals from outer space they were more science fiction than science. The first time I saw them spread across the plain on both sides of the road I was so impressed. Today, there was only a fragment of the number just two years ago and they were all bunched up near the visitors' center. These dishes have become obsolete and I had read somewhere that this and two other locations were basically being replaced by more modern technology at one central location--where, I cannot remember.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Very_Large_Array
As we continued to higher elevations we realized that we had made a good decision in waiting out the weather. The higher we went the more snow we encountered alongside the road and in places it was evident that there had been both plowing and heavy use of salt. When we arrived in Pie Town I asked Bill if we could stop for pie and coffee since we have never done so and I've always wanted to stop....As we came into town a large Thunderbird demanded that we STOP and so we did, only to find, along with a couple from Iowa, that neither pie shop was open. Second strike!
On we continued, us high plains drifters, came upon a heliport complete with wind sock in the middle of nowhere--not a thing in sight but shrubs and little trees and hills! Crazy--but a nice cement pad, securely fenced and locked so somebody must have reason to appear in no man's land at some time.
In time we reached Quemado, an interesting looking place with a cute little adobe church. I wonder who the famous rodeo riders were who lived there and when. Found this tidbit of info about the surrounding area--but guess what? We've missed it everytime we've driven by---don't think I mind.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Lightning_Field
Moving along we came upon a beautiful snow covered plateau which is actually a mountain of over 10,000 ft high. Don't have my map handy so cannot tell you its name at the moment--but then you probably don't care. Soon Bill felt that we'd come upon a sufficiently isolated spot to relieve himself--I was very amused to notice that he had an audience anyway! Both horses looked but one went back to grazing and the other momentarily looked away but then could not resist another look.
And then we were in Arizona! Ahead of us we could see the mountains on the Apache reservation. It is a gorgeous trip from Springerville over those mountains to Snowflake, but missing the turn we followed 60 into Show Low. Strike three, since Bill wanted to eat at the restaurant we'd enjoyed in Eager. At Springerville we had to pass through a cut in the rock and though I didn't take a picture there was a work crew repairing the guard rails that someone had taken out coming round and down the grade. Route 60 to Show Low was a new path for us and that was nice since lately we seem to have been over the same ground--not that we don't love the places we've been but we thirst for new things to explore at times. This strange looking bunker like decorated building on the bluff outside Springerville is actually the rest area building. Very unusual.
This path led us up in elevation but unlike the Apache reservation which takes us through tall trees and a high mountain lake this route took us through hills that looked like buff colored suede dusted with confectionery sugar. It is never hard to see where the road is going to lead, even when it is taking a sharp turn into the wooded hills ahead--you can see for miles and miles out here--it is so amazing! Then you are spilled out onto yet another high plain like dice rolled out of the hand of a giant.
In time, we reached Show Low, Az. I love this little burg--though in actuality it is rather monied when you go into the main area--a bit Hanoverish--but here at its southern climes it is little businesses and car dealerships. And so --there it was--today's home run--Jalapenos Cafe--the most delicious chili burgers you could imagine--a fun lady owner and her husband, the cook. She says she read the blog of another customer and they said she talked too much--LOL No way, her husband was terrific--told Bill that the chili had a bite but not super hot, came around and gave us utensils and told us how to eat a really delicious burger that I got so busy eating I forgot to photograph!! She was fun and said the chili was terrific and was a third generation recipe from her family. She did not lie. I returned Betsy's call from here--she'd called while we were in the boonies--no service. Got her earrings and loved them. Also a package from Gurney's. Bill told her to open it and see if they sent his peach tree--said it was early and they should not have--but if they did, she needed to open it and keep the roots moist. She said--he's kidding right? I said, nope!
Picked up 77 here and passed through farmland into Taylor which in turn runs directly into Snowflake. I love the fact that the two towns have obviously cooperated in having a seamless blending with the streetlamps that runs through them both. I liked them the first time we came through here from Holbrook headed back to NM a couple of years ago. Now, after Snowflake we entered mirage territory- I'm fascinated by mirages. They even reflect just like a real puddle and yet they are not real. What refraction of light can do! Science everywhere one looks.
And then, Holbrook! Rte 66 once more. We called to make sure we could get a room in Winslow from here. If we couldn't we were going to explore the possibility of a night at the WigWam Motel--a relic of the heyday of the Mother Road. But Winslow had room and it was truly too early to stop. We'll do it on another trip, I know we will!
http://www.galerie-kokopelli.com/wigwam/
Doesn't it look like a kick??
Now, for the last 30 or so miles we got on the I 40 which for the most part has followed the route of 66. It was fun to see an exit built especially for the Geronimo gift shop, which advertised for several miles. It was less fun to see a power plant opposite some really colorful bluffs. Passed a cop on the Interstate who was supporting the arrest--one can assume since the guy was handcuffed and being patted down by another cop on a frontage road--of a pedestrian on the side road. Shortly, thereafter we came upon a work truck spraying the center area between lanes--for insects? for shrubs? Don't know but it was strong and made me sick to my stomach. Then there was JackRabbit Rd leading to the JackRabbit gift shop etc.
At last, looming before us were Winslow's peaks--the East and the West Sunset Mountains. I bet they are gorgeous when the light of sunset hit their snow covered caps. And so, our day ended --in a place that did not spring ahead. The hour we lost Sunday night, regained. The desk clerk said that for six months of the year Az is in MST and then it jumps a time zone, into PST. On the other hand, should we go to Tuba City ( a plan, at the moment) which is on the Navajo Nation, we will lose it once more.
Ate in DJ's and chatted with a young guy--in his 40s--who lives in Needles, indeed, grew up there. Interesting history of the town and his life there. Mostly, it is railroad, railroad,railroad. Speaking of which, we're thinking railroad to the Grand Canyon, but that's another installment. So for now, I'll say good-night from the corner. We're going to catch another episode of House of Cards and then to bed. For now--here's your lullaby: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ZwFmNmB0OQ
And as a final note: When Bill Pond and Addison Pond were riding down the road--and this song came on--Addison Pond turned that radio right off. Sort of the same thing--when Kathy Brown was listening to Jerry Lee Lewis singing Great Balls of Fire and Joe Brown came into her room and smashed the record. Well, Bill Pond and Kathy Pond never censored Betsy Pond's music--guess we were scarred--oh, dear, better make another shrink appointment!!! Nightie night, gang! KandB
Monday, March 11, 2013
Sunday, March 10, 2013
We've Always Liked Socorro!
March 10, 2013 5:03 pm MST Room 109 Comfort Inn Socorro, New Mexico
Hopped out of bed at 6:30 am before we sprung ahead--so I actually got up at 7:30 am! It really doesn't matter--either way it was very early for me!LOL We didn't have the heat on when I retired at 1030 last night ( Bill, of course, had gone to bed by 9 ) and I was freezing for about an hour before I got up and dug around in the suitcase for the flashlight to turn it on. Set the thermostat at 68, which is much warmer than we usually do --but it was COLD. That is the first time on the whole trip other than Binghamton, NY when we've used the heat. Should have been a sign but I ignored it. Woke up at 4am ( 5) and turned it down to 63, out usual temp.
Anyhow, I was up, Bill was gone which meant he was at breakfast,so I packed up lots of things and had them ready for the car and for us to move on out. Bill returned ( I'm going to use real time, from now on ) at about 7:45 and said the weather doesn't look too good for us. He tried to throw the decision on me--while saying we are going to be going up in altitude, the forecast for Gallup-Grants which is in the same area is dire--etc,etc,etc. I'm on to him--if I say to stay then later when he decides it is time to beat tracks east, he will say, well we stayed in Socorro all that time. ( Carl the lion on the Serengeti ad for Geico just came on--we just get such a kick!) Anyway, I'm not going to let that happen so I said, hey, I don't care, you are driving not me--what do you think you can handle? Well, the Apache reservation is isolated --the road is long--so, in frustration I said--go, get the room, amen! So here we are and I know we did the right thing. Why even play around? I did not want to go to Alamogordo though it is wonderful there and Las Cruces and southern Arizona are wonderful, but we've done that several times. So let's wait one more day and then head out and see where we wind up. Here we are, then.
We talked about going to the Basque or down to the El Camino Royal Heritage Museum but in the end we decided to do the laundry, watch some more of House of Cards,which is quite addicting by the way ( cannot wait to see it all tumble down on the House Whip, Underwood and it will--just look at the title--who else is going to get it? As I changed tonight, Bill said " click" when you watch it you'll get it--though Zoe is more clickable than I--beauty in the eye etc or not--LOL ;) )
We then headed out to Wallie world, since I decided I wanted to do something with these nails. And then to K-Bob's where I had the salad wagon and then totally messed it up with a huge helping of chocolate pudding--lol Watched the Indiana-Michigan game--I was for Indiana and was quite thrilled at the result of a terrific game. I always feel sorry for the kids who lose, though!
Back to the room--wondering what to photograph and opted for shots of the motel--since it has been a longer than usual home away from home. Here's hoping we are able to bid farewell tomorrow and start exploring once more. I'll get up early again, just in case. Was over dressed at dinner--temp 60--a big change and hopefully a good sign. Will let you know tomorrow. KandB
Hopped out of bed at 6:30 am before we sprung ahead--so I actually got up at 7:30 am! It really doesn't matter--either way it was very early for me!LOL We didn't have the heat on when I retired at 1030 last night ( Bill, of course, had gone to bed by 9 ) and I was freezing for about an hour before I got up and dug around in the suitcase for the flashlight to turn it on. Set the thermostat at 68, which is much warmer than we usually do --but it was COLD. That is the first time on the whole trip other than Binghamton, NY when we've used the heat. Should have been a sign but I ignored it. Woke up at 4am ( 5) and turned it down to 63, out usual temp.
Anyhow, I was up, Bill was gone which meant he was at breakfast,so I packed up lots of things and had them ready for the car and for us to move on out. Bill returned ( I'm going to use real time, from now on ) at about 7:45 and said the weather doesn't look too good for us. He tried to throw the decision on me--while saying we are going to be going up in altitude, the forecast for Gallup-Grants which is in the same area is dire--etc,etc,etc. I'm on to him--if I say to stay then later when he decides it is time to beat tracks east, he will say, well we stayed in Socorro all that time. ( Carl the lion on the Serengeti ad for Geico just came on--we just get such a kick!) Anyway, I'm not going to let that happen so I said, hey, I don't care, you are driving not me--what do you think you can handle? Well, the Apache reservation is isolated --the road is long--so, in frustration I said--go, get the room, amen! So here we are and I know we did the right thing. Why even play around? I did not want to go to Alamogordo though it is wonderful there and Las Cruces and southern Arizona are wonderful, but we've done that several times. So let's wait one more day and then head out and see where we wind up. Here we are, then.
We talked about going to the Basque or down to the El Camino Royal Heritage Museum but in the end we decided to do the laundry, watch some more of House of Cards,which is quite addicting by the way ( cannot wait to see it all tumble down on the House Whip, Underwood and it will--just look at the title--who else is going to get it? As I changed tonight, Bill said " click" when you watch it you'll get it--though Zoe is more clickable than I--beauty in the eye etc or not--LOL ;) )
We then headed out to Wallie world, since I decided I wanted to do something with these nails. And then to K-Bob's where I had the salad wagon and then totally messed it up with a huge helping of chocolate pudding--lol Watched the Indiana-Michigan game--I was for Indiana and was quite thrilled at the result of a terrific game. I always feel sorry for the kids who lose, though!
Back to the room--wondering what to photograph and opted for shots of the motel--since it has been a longer than usual home away from home. Here's hoping we are able to bid farewell tomorrow and start exploring once more. I'll get up early again, just in case. Was over dressed at dinner--temp 60--a big change and hopefully a good sign. Will let you know tomorrow. KandB
Saturday, March 9, 2013
A Very Bosque Day!
March 9,2013 8:34pm Room 109 Comfort Inn Socorro, New Mexico
Today was spent almost entirely in the Bosque del Apache in San Antonio, New Mexico. We got up at 6 and were in the Bosque by 7:10. The morning was sunny, with few clouds but windy and cold (40 degrees) My hair needed washing badly but no one would see me but the animals we hoped to see in the refuge, which was established on 52,000+ acres in 1939. Bosque del Apache literally means woods of the Apache in Spanish, so I'm told and the history book I bought today says that Spanish travelers were surprised by Apache Indians hiding in the cottonwoods along the Rio Grande.
In my youth, I often went for three day retreats in various places--a time of silence, prayer and reflection. The practice originated with an annual three day retreat that all students at Mt St Vincent were required to attend in the Spring semester. Our campus is a beautiful one that sits right on the Hudson River opposite the Palisades of New Jersey. At night the George Washington Bridge is visible to the south and the Tappan Zee to the north. They looked like jeweled necklaces across the neck of the River. A perfect place with benches and paths in which to find solitude and quiet. I remember one year I read the Once and Future King hidden within a copy of the Lives of the Saints. I looked properly pious and reflective whenever my eyes met those of any of the bonneted Sisters of Charity who happened by. LOL But, no matter my reading material, stress--of which I'd never heard--and fatigue, with which I was sometimes familiar floated away and I finished the retreat refreshed and ready to run.
The Bosque offers that same solitude, silence, peace and spirituality to me and I think, in some way, to Bill. We both love it there and though we had been there only three days earlier with our friends, Bud and Gloria, it did not seem a problem to return--not only at this early morning for three hours but also a return later in the day.
Once we'd finished our three hour morning drive we went to the Visitors' Center where I stamped my National Parks Passport once more and purchased the aforementioned history of the Bosque, a book about one of my favorite birds, the Roadrunner, a couple of bookmarks, and the CD winter tour of the refuge. Also a counted cross-stitch sampler of four Native weaving patterns.
We returned to Socorro by NM route 1, stopped at K-Bob's steakhouse where we'd had a terrible experience five years ago. I am happy to report today's visit was much more enjoyable. Funny thing--the beer we drank with lunch comes from a brewery in Portsmouth, NH--actually, three locations, one of which is Portsmouth. I'd imagine these particular bottles came from the brewery in Washington State. As we entered the restaurant Betsy returned our earlier call on which we delivered a rousing duet of Happy Birthday. She is 27 today. She said birthday doesn't mean much to her--I said, well, it means alot to me--I exerted great effort to bring her into the world at sufficient pain to be memorable. Told her when I got a look at her downdrawn black eyebrows as she glowered at me, I was tempted to give her to Nurse Brady for her very own. Somehow, I just knew we were going to have our moments. Said I changed my mind and kept her and that I'm glad I did. She sounded happy as only one can when you are sitting on the porch in the sunshine, at 60 degrees under a cloudless sky on Mar 9 in Vermont. She'd gone to The Fort for breakfast and was going to hang out with Misty all day and then go out with friends tonight. She's been subbing every day and working with Owen after school til 8, as usual. She's liking it. Was good to chat with her. She hasn't checked the mail in a while and Bill said well, her baby alligator--her birthday present had probably died then. I said, assuming it hatched already. Of course, I sent her earrings from Grandmother's Buttons! LOL Returned to the room, took a shower and washed my yucky hair and took an hour's nap.
Then we got dressed and returned to the Bosque to see it at sunset. Another three hours but during both tours we played our Sirius radio quietly rather than the tour disc--LOL Two new things in the evening--a covey of quail right outside the gate to the trail and a skunk out for a drink from the ditch alongside the road. There is ALWAYS something new--no matter how simple. Drove into San Antonio and returned to The Owl--Bill was hankering for that chile burger Bud had the other day. I opted for a small nacho grande plate. Good thing I got small!! As I stopped on the way out and spoke to several of the ladies who work there I commented on the lovely bar with its hand carved trim. The owner, Rowena, gave me the history of the establishment. Note the origins of the bar. Told you-wonder if the original building is still there--I don't think so.
We then headed back to Socorro and more episodes of House of Cards with Kevin Spacey--it is a really good show. Episode 3 deals with the water tower in the shape of a peach in Gaffney, South Carolina--we've been there, seen the tower ( the Peachoid )--heck I ran across a windy field to get a shot of it several years ago! LOL I think I was a photographer in an earlier life, though maybe not a very good one.
Tomorrow, off toward Arizona--fingers crossed for good weather headed toward the Grand Canyon--that's the plan anyway. Good night for now. KandB
Today was spent almost entirely in the Bosque del Apache in San Antonio, New Mexico. We got up at 6 and were in the Bosque by 7:10. The morning was sunny, with few clouds but windy and cold (40 degrees) My hair needed washing badly but no one would see me but the animals we hoped to see in the refuge, which was established on 52,000+ acres in 1939. Bosque del Apache literally means woods of the Apache in Spanish, so I'm told and the history book I bought today says that Spanish travelers were surprised by Apache Indians hiding in the cottonwoods along the Rio Grande.
In my youth, I often went for three day retreats in various places--a time of silence, prayer and reflection. The practice originated with an annual three day retreat that all students at Mt St Vincent were required to attend in the Spring semester. Our campus is a beautiful one that sits right on the Hudson River opposite the Palisades of New Jersey. At night the George Washington Bridge is visible to the south and the Tappan Zee to the north. They looked like jeweled necklaces across the neck of the River. A perfect place with benches and paths in which to find solitude and quiet. I remember one year I read the Once and Future King hidden within a copy of the Lives of the Saints. I looked properly pious and reflective whenever my eyes met those of any of the bonneted Sisters of Charity who happened by. LOL But, no matter my reading material, stress--of which I'd never heard--and fatigue, with which I was sometimes familiar floated away and I finished the retreat refreshed and ready to run.
The Bosque offers that same solitude, silence, peace and spirituality to me and I think, in some way, to Bill. We both love it there and though we had been there only three days earlier with our friends, Bud and Gloria, it did not seem a problem to return--not only at this early morning for three hours but also a return later in the day.
Once we'd finished our three hour morning drive we went to the Visitors' Center where I stamped my National Parks Passport once more and purchased the aforementioned history of the Bosque, a book about one of my favorite birds, the Roadrunner, a couple of bookmarks, and the CD winter tour of the refuge. Also a counted cross-stitch sampler of four Native weaving patterns.
We returned to Socorro by NM route 1, stopped at K-Bob's steakhouse where we'd had a terrible experience five years ago. I am happy to report today's visit was much more enjoyable. Funny thing--the beer we drank with lunch comes from a brewery in Portsmouth, NH--actually, three locations, one of which is Portsmouth. I'd imagine these particular bottles came from the brewery in Washington State. As we entered the restaurant Betsy returned our earlier call on which we delivered a rousing duet of Happy Birthday. She is 27 today. She said birthday doesn't mean much to her--I said, well, it means alot to me--I exerted great effort to bring her into the world at sufficient pain to be memorable. Told her when I got a look at her downdrawn black eyebrows as she glowered at me, I was tempted to give her to Nurse Brady for her very own. Somehow, I just knew we were going to have our moments. Said I changed my mind and kept her and that I'm glad I did. She sounded happy as only one can when you are sitting on the porch in the sunshine, at 60 degrees under a cloudless sky on Mar 9 in Vermont. She'd gone to The Fort for breakfast and was going to hang out with Misty all day and then go out with friends tonight. She's been subbing every day and working with Owen after school til 8, as usual. She's liking it. Was good to chat with her. She hasn't checked the mail in a while and Bill said well, her baby alligator--her birthday present had probably died then. I said, assuming it hatched already. Of course, I sent her earrings from Grandmother's Buttons! LOL Returned to the room, took a shower and washed my yucky hair and took an hour's nap.
Then we got dressed and returned to the Bosque to see it at sunset. Another three hours but during both tours we played our Sirius radio quietly rather than the tour disc--LOL Two new things in the evening--a covey of quail right outside the gate to the trail and a skunk out for a drink from the ditch alongside the road. There is ALWAYS something new--no matter how simple. Drove into San Antonio and returned to The Owl--Bill was hankering for that chile burger Bud had the other day. I opted for a small nacho grande plate. Good thing I got small!! As I stopped on the way out and spoke to several of the ladies who work there I commented on the lovely bar with its hand carved trim. The owner, Rowena, gave me the history of the establishment. Note the origins of the bar. Told you-wonder if the original building is still there--I don't think so.
We then headed back to Socorro and more episodes of House of Cards with Kevin Spacey--it is a really good show. Episode 3 deals with the water tower in the shape of a peach in Gaffney, South Carolina--we've been there, seen the tower ( the Peachoid )--heck I ran across a windy field to get a shot of it several years ago! LOL I think I was a photographer in an earlier life, though maybe not a very good one.
Tomorrow, off toward Arizona--fingers crossed for good weather headed toward the Grand Canyon--that's the plan anyway. Good night for now. KandB
Friday, March 8, 2013
Playing Games With Triton
March 8, 2013 3:49 PM Room 109 Comfort Inn Socorro,NM
Hello fellow travelers!
Did you like the retracking today? Sigh! This has been an interesting year so far as playing hide and seek games with the weather and its storms is concerned. Once more our original path has been blocked by yet another bout of winter--snow predicted for Gallup today and certainly north and northwest of Gallup. So we are delayed in our passage to Mesa Verde etc. So, once more, we looked at the maps last night and decided to head back east and south to avoid it. Why backtrack, you ask. Why not south and west into Arizona---Mountains, mountains, mountains. Now, we do have studded tires and are used to driving in snow but the people out here are not and they drive like maniacs--the speed limit is 70-75. I must admit that in my youth I used to fly down 89 at anywhere from 75-80 mph but those days are over for both of us. Especially with our small car in this windy State. Also the roads south out of Gallup are back roads and those west from there are as well. All in all, going to Truth or Consequences for a few days soaking in hot springs sounded like a nice way to wait out Mother Nature's snit.
Today's pictures fall into two categories then, the weather, the lava beds around Grants and Mount Taylor, also around Grants and a favorite with us because of its history which is not evident when looking at this lovely statuesque (11,301ft) geographic feature. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mount_Taylor_(New_Mexico)
It is the source, along with several other volcanoes for the incredibly large lava beds that make up the El Malpais and surrounding area. It is also sacred to the tribes of the area, particularly the Navajo and is by them associated with the color blue--probably why I love it so much,though I didn't know this info until I read the above article. Blue is my favorite color--LOL What I did know about the mountain was its rich deposits of uranium ore and the extensive mining done here to extract it. Those of you who have traveled with us before may remember when Bill and I got locked into the underground mining museum in Grants a few years back. Actually, we were upstairs but couldn't get out of the building! Interesting event. LOL
At any rate, we got on I 40 in Gallup at around 930 am in sunny weather though threatening clouds and 48 degrees. We continued east as all around us the clouds thickened and became darker and darker. Mt Taylor did not seem to have any more snow on it today than it did two days ago but the Zuni Mts south of us were accumulating a dusting of snow as we watched. We continued through the lava beds until we reached the little pueblo of Laguna. This is one of the villages that the Acoma established when they moved from Sky City to be closer to water, as we were told on our visit there(SC) last year. The wind sock, as we descended into the valley beyond the lava beds was hardly moving--unlike its almost horizontal orientation a few days back. As we approached our exit to Los Lunas we came upon a work zone --the first posted speed in the work zone was 65 and was reduced to 55 at the center of activity--LOL I'd just love working there as all these tractor trailers bomb by at 55 mph!
I think this is the first time we have traveled southeast on 6--what a different perspective--but really very scenic with train after train running every which way through the plateau filled plain. Though it seemed impossible the clouds got even thicker and the vertical height was unbelievable, from the ground up it seemed. Yet, there seemed to be some encouraging patches of blue to the west. But once we got on I 25 south things didn't look very good to the west and only slightly better to the east. At this point I called Riverbend Resort in Truth or Consequences to see if there were rooms available for two nights. Our preference were the courtyard suites but would take anything since the place has five rock pools of hot springs right on the banks of the Rio Grande with a butte facing the pools across the River. Well, nothing available. The gentleman was quite nice and said that they really book up fast on week-ends, especially the courtyard suites--that people book them 4 months in advance!!!
http://www.riverbendhotsprings.com/index.html
Bud and Gloria have stayed there and found it to be absolutely wonderful and relaxing to say nothing about the rave reviews on TripAdvisor. I asked Bill if we should book the Comfort Inn in TOC and just go over to the pools as non-guests--the pools are public. With a two night stay guests also get an hour in a private pool which we really were hoping to do. So, after discussion, we decided that paying for the pools and the room was more than we wanted to spend. In addition, having to go from one place to another was a bit of a hassle. So we opted to stay in Socorro and plan on getting to TOC during the week and call a couple of weeks in advance another year.
As we reached Escondido, just before Socorro we felt we'd made the right decision. I've never seen a wall of cloud and rain so close before. We weren't getting rain yet but we could have touched the storm to our west or so it seemed. As we arrived at Socorro though, the temperature, which had risen to the high 60's as we traveled, dropped into the 50's, the sky opened up and the wind blew the rain across the road in front of us and tried blowing the car out of Bill's control. Fortunately, we were at our exit. So we continued to the Socorro Springs Brewery for a burger and brew. The air smelled of wet dust --I wish I could capture it for you--it is really a different smell. The waitress was ecstatic--she loves the smell of rain ( so do I ) and she said they don't get it often. I know that is true. By the time we finished eating the deluge was over.
The sky has brightened and there are distant patches of blue but it is raining--lightly. We had hoped to go to the Bosque in late afternoon to see what it is like but we'll do that tomorrow if it is clear. I hope we will get up early and head down tomorrow morning--that is a terrific time, too. Bill is watching Judge Judy--it is so funny that he likes this show--I love Judy, she is like the women I grew up having around me. Just a kick to see him enjoy her.
I am going to read a book I bought at El Morro--it is a photo book of places in New Mexico with quotes from people through the centuries--Native Americans, letters home from some of the Spaniards in Coronado's army, letters back east from pioneers, comments by others who followed 66 west from the wastelands of Oklahoma etc during the depression. Seems to be a wonderful book--can't wait to see what others have said about this Land of Enchantment, we've seen so much of it ourselves. Bill is reading about the Pueblo Revolution and says it is quite interesting--I'll read it when he's done.
We have also talked about our plans from here and we are thinking of heading farther West into Arizona and then cutting up to the Grand Canyon. Bill has never been there and I haven't been since 2000. Then we can try hitting Monument Valley etc on our way back east. It will be a week to ten days from now --later in the season, perhaps we'll have less of a winter storm problem in that area. At least we will get going to some place we haven't been rather than lingering in NM and an area we've pretty well explored. Sounds like a plan--let's hope Mother Nature thinks it is a good one, too. For now, off to reading near the window so I can watch and smell the rain.
Next time, KandB
Hello fellow travelers!
Did you like the retracking today? Sigh! This has been an interesting year so far as playing hide and seek games with the weather and its storms is concerned. Once more our original path has been blocked by yet another bout of winter--snow predicted for Gallup today and certainly north and northwest of Gallup. So we are delayed in our passage to Mesa Verde etc. So, once more, we looked at the maps last night and decided to head back east and south to avoid it. Why backtrack, you ask. Why not south and west into Arizona---Mountains, mountains, mountains. Now, we do have studded tires and are used to driving in snow but the people out here are not and they drive like maniacs--the speed limit is 70-75. I must admit that in my youth I used to fly down 89 at anywhere from 75-80 mph but those days are over for both of us. Especially with our small car in this windy State. Also the roads south out of Gallup are back roads and those west from there are as well. All in all, going to Truth or Consequences for a few days soaking in hot springs sounded like a nice way to wait out Mother Nature's snit.
Today's pictures fall into two categories then, the weather, the lava beds around Grants and Mount Taylor, also around Grants and a favorite with us because of its history which is not evident when looking at this lovely statuesque (11,301ft) geographic feature. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mount_Taylor_(New_Mexico)
It is the source, along with several other volcanoes for the incredibly large lava beds that make up the El Malpais and surrounding area. It is also sacred to the tribes of the area, particularly the Navajo and is by them associated with the color blue--probably why I love it so much,though I didn't know this info until I read the above article. Blue is my favorite color--LOL What I did know about the mountain was its rich deposits of uranium ore and the extensive mining done here to extract it. Those of you who have traveled with us before may remember when Bill and I got locked into the underground mining museum in Grants a few years back. Actually, we were upstairs but couldn't get out of the building! Interesting event. LOL
At any rate, we got on I 40 in Gallup at around 930 am in sunny weather though threatening clouds and 48 degrees. We continued east as all around us the clouds thickened and became darker and darker. Mt Taylor did not seem to have any more snow on it today than it did two days ago but the Zuni Mts south of us were accumulating a dusting of snow as we watched. We continued through the lava beds until we reached the little pueblo of Laguna. This is one of the villages that the Acoma established when they moved from Sky City to be closer to water, as we were told on our visit there(SC) last year. The wind sock, as we descended into the valley beyond the lava beds was hardly moving--unlike its almost horizontal orientation a few days back. As we approached our exit to Los Lunas we came upon a work zone --the first posted speed in the work zone was 65 and was reduced to 55 at the center of activity--LOL I'd just love working there as all these tractor trailers bomb by at 55 mph!
I think this is the first time we have traveled southeast on 6--what a different perspective--but really very scenic with train after train running every which way through the plateau filled plain. Though it seemed impossible the clouds got even thicker and the vertical height was unbelievable, from the ground up it seemed. Yet, there seemed to be some encouraging patches of blue to the west. But once we got on I 25 south things didn't look very good to the west and only slightly better to the east. At this point I called Riverbend Resort in Truth or Consequences to see if there were rooms available for two nights. Our preference were the courtyard suites but would take anything since the place has five rock pools of hot springs right on the banks of the Rio Grande with a butte facing the pools across the River. Well, nothing available. The gentleman was quite nice and said that they really book up fast on week-ends, especially the courtyard suites--that people book them 4 months in advance!!!
http://www.riverbendhotsprings.com/index.html
Bud and Gloria have stayed there and found it to be absolutely wonderful and relaxing to say nothing about the rave reviews on TripAdvisor. I asked Bill if we should book the Comfort Inn in TOC and just go over to the pools as non-guests--the pools are public. With a two night stay guests also get an hour in a private pool which we really were hoping to do. So, after discussion, we decided that paying for the pools and the room was more than we wanted to spend. In addition, having to go from one place to another was a bit of a hassle. So we opted to stay in Socorro and plan on getting to TOC during the week and call a couple of weeks in advance another year.
As we reached Escondido, just before Socorro we felt we'd made the right decision. I've never seen a wall of cloud and rain so close before. We weren't getting rain yet but we could have touched the storm to our west or so it seemed. As we arrived at Socorro though, the temperature, which had risen to the high 60's as we traveled, dropped into the 50's, the sky opened up and the wind blew the rain across the road in front of us and tried blowing the car out of Bill's control. Fortunately, we were at our exit. So we continued to the Socorro Springs Brewery for a burger and brew. The air smelled of wet dust --I wish I could capture it for you--it is really a different smell. The waitress was ecstatic--she loves the smell of rain ( so do I ) and she said they don't get it often. I know that is true. By the time we finished eating the deluge was over.
The sky has brightened and there are distant patches of blue but it is raining--lightly. We had hoped to go to the Bosque in late afternoon to see what it is like but we'll do that tomorrow if it is clear. I hope we will get up early and head down tomorrow morning--that is a terrific time, too. Bill is watching Judge Judy--it is so funny that he likes this show--I love Judy, she is like the women I grew up having around me. Just a kick to see him enjoy her.
I am going to read a book I bought at El Morro--it is a photo book of places in New Mexico with quotes from people through the centuries--Native Americans, letters home from some of the Spaniards in Coronado's army, letters back east from pioneers, comments by others who followed 66 west from the wastelands of Oklahoma etc during the depression. Seems to be a wonderful book--can't wait to see what others have said about this Land of Enchantment, we've seen so much of it ourselves. Bill is reading about the Pueblo Revolution and says it is quite interesting--I'll read it when he's done.
We have also talked about our plans from here and we are thinking of heading farther West into Arizona and then cutting up to the Grand Canyon. Bill has never been there and I haven't been since 2000. Then we can try hitting Monument Valley etc on our way back east. It will be a week to ten days from now --later in the season, perhaps we'll have less of a winter storm problem in that area. At least we will get going to some place we haven't been rather than lingering in NM and an area we've pretty well explored. Sounds like a plan--let's hope Mother Nature thinks it is a good one, too. For now, off to reading near the window so I can watch and smell the rain.
Next time, KandB
Thursday, March 7, 2013
Catching Up--Clovis to Belen to Gallup
March 7, 2013 5:07 PM MST Room 206 Gallup, New Mexico
Oh, my goodness! I cannot believe it has been four days since I've written to my travel buddies. Where did I leave off? Ah, yes, I was typing furiously in the breakfast room in Clovis and when I signed off our next stop was to be Belen, NM and the home of our friends, Gloria and Bud. So, I shall pick up with our departure from Clovis at around 9:30 Monday morning, a bright, sunny, though very windy morning with temperature around 50 degrees. I am not convinced that the wind EVER lets up in New Mexico.
We headed over toward Belen on Rt 60, a road we've traveled many times before, but then again, there are not very many roads into or out of New Mexico that we haven't traveled at least once. Even though this is a familiar route, it was not until this trip that we discovered that the historical sign located a short distance outside Clovis is also located at the foot of Gloria's road, halfway across the State--or at least as far across as Albuquerque. So that is a very large area that is considered the same large plain--especially since we cross some mountains just outside Belen. It is still used for grazing and is now criss-crossed with railroads--we had fun racing several of them from time to time. As you can see, there isn't much else to do on these open plains. I love noticing things like the herd of Angus on one side of the road being looked at and probably mooed at by the lone Angus on the other side. I actually didn't notice that until reviewing the pictures. LOL
There are not many towns along this route and those that do exist are pretty much empty and the buildings totally demolished, although made of stone. One place that is a crossroads of , not only rail lines, but also several major routes--one going south to Carrizozo, another north to Santa Rosa, another headed southeast to Roswell and ours headed west--is Vaughn. There are about seven motels and several restaurants and a couple of gas stations--all but one gas station standing empty and windowless. Why, I wonder, when these roads are so well traveled. Perhaps cars are so much better these days it is easy to get to those other places to stay or eat. It is high on the top of a crest and the wind is so awful there that, when Bill got out of the car to put air in a tire that has been problematic for awhile, he was almost unable to close the door ----he needed to have a foot outside to get a good grasp and then almost couldn't get it back in to get the door totally closed. Just awful. For a large part of the trip over we fought a strong head wind and our mileage, which had been 34-35 mpg and at one point 37mpg in Texas, dropped down to 33 mpg. That may have been partially due to the lost pressure in the left rear tire also.
One of the major features on this highway is a series of three dry lake beds--I have always been fascinated by them and probably have more pix of them than I'll ever need. They are known as playas and apparently are common on these high plains in eastern New Mexico as well as those of West Texas. Don't remember noticing them anywhere else. Their formation and locations and sizes are kind of interesting. Bonneville Salt Flats,which I've never seen,except in movies, is apparently a super large playa. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dry_lake
About 40 miles away from Belen is the town of Mountainair. Bill and I like the little cantina in the early 20th C. Hotel Shaeffer but as we pulled up a lady, carrying a cardboard tray of what I thought might be fresh baked goods, told us they were closed. We decided to cruise a couple of the few streets to see if there might be another spot to grab a light lunch. Found a neat little cafe--Alpine Alley Coffee Shop. The couple who own it work side by side behind the counter--neat relationship--quips and tripping over each other. She is a fifty-ish thin woman with a long gray braid--high energy bouncing out of every pore. He is more laid back, manning the grill with casual stride and movement. The room is very cozy--as you walk in the space to your right has three couches arranged in a square with one open side and a large coffee table in front of them. There are scattered tables with magazines and books and newspapers, several open front cabinets with shelves of books. On the left there is a space with three small tables and chairs and more cabinets and shelves. In front of you is a counter with high backed wooden chairs. We sat there with another traveler who soon left. Miss Energy came over having grabbed a couple of menus and said sit anywhere--we're used to people just grabbing the menus from wherever. There was a doddering old lady also behind the counter--she seemed to be doing a good job of getting in the way and not knowing quite what is going on--though it didn't seem to be that she was slow but rather that Energy girl just had her addled. Indeed, I'd be exhausted if I worked with her. Some guy came it and said to granny--hi, I didn't know you were working here. Energy said, oh, she's been here for years. The guy said--learn something new every day. Energy relented and said no, she came in this am when breakfast business was very busy so I asked her to grab some orders and we'd treat her to breakfast when things slowed down. Oh, the guy said, okay--so we were both right. LOL
Anyway, we ordered two pastrami on rye--no cheese--only mustard. Energy called us purists--indeed, I was a bit apprehensive at how pure the result would be. Well, wonders of wonders--the pastrami was STEAMED--yes!--not grilled or fried as I've gotten it in Vt --groan. It was piled high, the mustard was flavorful and the rye delicious. Who'da guessed??? When Energy told granny two p's on rye that did it--she was totally confused and retired. LOL I asked for sweet tea and Energy opened the cooler and with a flourish and bow pointed out the selection of bottled tea or said I could have fresh made. Opted for that--a carafe with hot water and tea bag--a huge glass of ice cubes--and the sweetener of my choice--blue, pink, yellow ( packets), we don't discriminate around here--and I chose honey, which came in a warm squeeze bottle so it flowed nice and golden into the amber tea. Delicious. A neat place--we will return. Two high school boys came in for lunch so I asked how big the school is--the senior class has 15. There are three schools in town and from K-12 there are about 500 kids, they are bussed from the small villages in the area as well as the townies. Reminded me of Chelsea. I could sub in such a place and love it, I think.
Then it was off once more through the rich red clayish rocks of the pass into the valley spreading in front of us and the Manzano Mountains off in front and then through a smaller pass and they move to our left and right. Here route 47 takes off sharply to the right and we go with it. We pass through the Terre Grande, a huge swath of the valley that is for sale--5 acre house sites sitting beneath these mountains that make the train running at its base look like a toy model. Through the years the number of house have grown and someday I'm sure the whole area will be developed. 47 takes us right into town and like locals we navigate through it to Sunrise Bluffs and our destination for the next two nights.
Gloria is a fabulous cook and after much chattering and getting caught up on all the news of the past year it was time for hamburgers from the grill served on her wonderful homemade rolls--there is not a hamburger bun in the world that can compare. We had macaroni-tuna salad and various additions such as tomato and onion etc with which to dress the hamburgers. Delicious. We watched the news and chattered some more, had a delicious cream pound cake confection with fresh raspberries and whipped cream and by 930 we all went to bed. We wanted to be rested for the next day's excursion to the Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge in Socorro. A favorite place of the four of us--so Gloria and Bud usually wait at this time of year for our arrival to head down for a visit.
For some reason I did not sleep as well as usual. Have no idea why--the room is the one we always stay in, the bed was incredibly comfortable and I opened the blinds a sliver so it wasn't too dark. I went out like a light when I went to bed but woke up around 230 and never got back to sleep until 5. I was worried since we'd agreed to get up at 7 and be on the road by 8. It is about an hour to an hour and a half down to Socorro and the earlier one gets to the refuge the more animals you are likely to see. Haven't a clue how my body did it but I woke up at 7 on the dot. Dressed and out to another great meal--OJ, coffee and the moistest banana chocolate chip muffins one could want.
Last year, Bud took us over to the Bernardo Management Area but they were in the process of redoing the roads etc and it was closed. So we started there. It is a really nice area also but most of the cranes have already left and so we saw one little group and nothing else. On we went to the Bosque, which is in San Antonio along the Rio Grande River. Neither is like their namesakes in Texas but I like the New Mexico version better. It always amuses me to think that this is the town in which Conrad Hilton grew up and the place in which he rented rooms out of his parents home in his youth. I've often wondered what Paris Hilton would make of the origins of the money that she so freely used to become a mean nothing celebrity.
As we approached the entrance to the refuge loop we came upon a fairly large flock of some sort of geese---snow? who have not yet headed North. Smart cookies--the blizzards up there would not be conducive to a happy early Spring. We came upon a great blue heron when first entering the south loop--he/she struck a super model pose for its glamour shot. We continued slowly along the deserted gravel loop road --saw small birds and many ducks of various types, including mallards. I love the guys who stand on their heads in the water--they are so comical. As we came around the far loop where Bud and Gloria have frequently seen large groups of deer we were amazed to see two PIGs crossing the road. This was a first for all three of us. Last year the surprise was posters all over the place warning about Mountain Lions--the posters were gone this year. Now we found pigs and as we moved in for a closer shot we discovered we'd found a whole group of pigs, including one little baby pig. It was fun to see them race across a clearing to get from one area of brush to another. I was amazed to see that the adults ran ahead and left the little guy to fend for himself--no wonder there was only one. I looked up feral hogs, wild pigs and, what I thought these are, peccaries on the Internet. It would appear that feral hogs are causing the same destruction in NM as they are in Georgia and the Northeast but they are peccaries--collared peccaries to be exact. http://www.picsearch.com/Collared-Peccary-pictures.html
As we continued round the loop to what is known as the farmland--large fields that are often planted with corn and are filled with cranes until the northward migration that starts in Feb--we entered the area that is most populated with hawks.
There was also a small group of mule deer, one of which had some really strange dark marks on its flank--close ups look as though they are wounds that are healing. Did this animal have a run in with one of those mountain lions and manage to escape?
Gloria and Bud had just picked up their new to them Chrysler Town and Country. They have three small grand-daughters and so, when they are visiting and want to go anywhere it has meant the use of two cars. This way they can all ride together. It rides like a dream, is roomy and the way the seats are arranged it is so much easier for the four of us to chat and comment on our surroundings. I love it and I know they are quite happy with it, too. Our excursion was the break-in trip. In "downtown" San Antonio there is a fairly well -known and critically acclaimed restaurant, the Owl. They are closed on Sunday and Monday and in all the years we've gone to the Bosque we've managed to be there when the Owl was closed. This time we hit it right--so we all agreed the time was now to try it out.
Bud ordered a chili cheeseburger and we were all amused at his attempts to pick it up and get a bite out of it. Gloria and I had straight cheeseburgers and Bill had Mexican chili--NOT Tex-Mex. The food was delicious and we all agreed, this is a place we'll come back to on our next visit to the Bosque, a place of serenity and beauty that we all love at any time of year.
Got back home around 130 and Gloria and I decided to take naps while Bill and Bud went over to the Moose Lodge to chat with the guys. Around 4, Gloria and I went into the scrap room and played on the computers, she showed me Mrs Brown's Boys in Utube--an hilarious British comedy. We had planned on meatloaf for dinner but after our beefy lunch we changed the menu to spaghetti and salad. That is one of our favorite meals served at Chez ComstockHill. She could serve that to us any time we visit. I've copied her sauce and salad preps ever since our first visit. It is just simply scrumptious and very easy. We then decided to give the Netflix exclusive House of Cards with Kevin Spacey a try and all decided it is a good show and we'll watch the remaining episodes. Once more we retired at 930 but I turned on TV in our room and watched the Charlie Rose interview of Sandra Day O'Connor and another with a Muslim professor at Oxford--I forget his name. I am quite fond of Rose--not confrontational but not soft in his questions. He takes more of a conversational approach which means he is batting ideas back and forth rather than grilling his guests. So came an end to our visit with our New Hampshire transplant friends. Only breakfast left and then we would continue our trek west.
Yesterday, up around 8---packed everything up, Bill loaded it in the car, got dressed and a nice repeat breakfast with Gloria and Bud. Bud wanted to get down to the glass shop before it closed since we'd discovered a chip in the Chrysler's windshield. We didn't notice it until we'd been driving awhile and i cannot believe that they would have missed it when looking over the car before purchase. It was a fair sized chip. I suspect we got it in the first refuge or on the Interstate headed to the Bosque. We in the meantime found that just sitting the left rear tire had gone from 34 psi to 21psi. So our first stop was Craig Tires, after hugs good-bye and promises to call to let them know whether or not to strip the beds--that's our joke--Gloria doesn't strip the beds until we are east of Albuquerque and we know we aren't stopping on the way home. The young man found a piece of metal--a rod like thing--so he was able to remove it and plug the hole. Thank goodness--we are driving with our studs and we surely did not want to buy four new tires, which we'd have had to do if we lost one studded tire and we're pretty sure we wouldn't have gotten snows in New Mexico--at least not this part without ordering them. The guy didn't charge us and Bill was going to drive off without giving the kid a tip!!!!! Are you kidding me--it would have been the hour's minimum labor at home at who knows what an hour! God!
Off we went out route 6 to the interstate with snow-covered Mt Taylor over in Grants leading us on. Left the Interstate around Grants and headed down to El Malpais---the land around an extinct volcano filled with hollow hardened lava tubes. Louis L'Amour said this is dangerous land, the tubes can collapse as you ride over them and the sharp lava will cut the legs of the horses. From there we continued to El Morro. We've been this way before several years ago, but I had chosen not to take the hike out to the inscriptions on the base of Morro and Bill decided he wanted me to walk it this time --that I would be glad to have seen it and that I could manage the mile hike if I took it slowly enough. How right he was--the pool making this an oasis in a desert area is still there( with a very mouthy crow protecting it). It has been used by Indians, Spanish explorers, pioneers, the Calvary etc and members of each of these groups has left historical graffiti on the walls of this rock. Much like my visits to European cathedrals I found myself awed by the fact that I was standing in the footsteps of people who had gone before me so long ago. Each had a story that we'll never know except in the context of the groups with which they traveled West and yet they were just like us. So amazing and I laugh that signs tell us we cannot add our names to the wall, not that I want to, but today it is defacement, then it was making notations that became history.
As we left the multicolored pinnacles loomed on our right side. We are beginning to reach the part of the country that I love--the strange and colorful formations that wind, rain and small particles of sand as well as rushing water has carved from the earth. Soon we arrived in Gallup for the night and headed over to Applebee's for steak dinner. Saw on the weather channel that we are in for rain and snow in the Mesa Verde-Four Corners-Monument Valley that we planned to explore. It should be cleared out by Sunday-Monday. So out came the maps. We decided with the shopping I wanted to do in Gallup and the distance to Mesa Verde that we would be better to head back south to Truth or Consequences for awhile and then return north to explore those areas. Watched Night and Day and then the Americans and so to sleep.
Signed up for another night in Gallup and this morning slept in until 9. Read the paper leisurely and had breakfast. Headed over to Perry Null's where I started my coral jewelry with a bracelet that fits into the curves of my turquoise one, and a pair of earrings that are not petit point or needlepoint. Karen was surprised but I told her I wanted the coral collection to be different than the turquoise. I did buy a pair of earrings with both stones--they dangle like chandeliers since my original turquoise are posts. They are small so that they don't compete with my squash blossom necklace when I wear it. But I wanted something more noticeable when I'm only wearing the bracelet. Having finished that we returned to the room and I did bookkeeping, spoke to Betsy who is doing alot of subbing and otherwise lounged around. Ate some delicious tuna-macaroni salad that the chef at Chez ComstockHill had packed up for me and read a bit. Tomorrow we'll head south and see if we can find some hot springs to soak in. So friends, we've caught you up on our adventure. For now, if you'd like, you may listen to a few of our favorite songs about New Mexico
http://archive.org/details/dmead2005-07-09 play New Mexico from the list on the right
and my especial favorite---http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aCw5DJoinI8
Until tomorrow--good night all KandB
Oh, my goodness! I cannot believe it has been four days since I've written to my travel buddies. Where did I leave off? Ah, yes, I was typing furiously in the breakfast room in Clovis and when I signed off our next stop was to be Belen, NM and the home of our friends, Gloria and Bud. So, I shall pick up with our departure from Clovis at around 9:30 Monday morning, a bright, sunny, though very windy morning with temperature around 50 degrees. I am not convinced that the wind EVER lets up in New Mexico.
We headed over toward Belen on Rt 60, a road we've traveled many times before, but then again, there are not very many roads into or out of New Mexico that we haven't traveled at least once. Even though this is a familiar route, it was not until this trip that we discovered that the historical sign located a short distance outside Clovis is also located at the foot of Gloria's road, halfway across the State--or at least as far across as Albuquerque. So that is a very large area that is considered the same large plain--especially since we cross some mountains just outside Belen. It is still used for grazing and is now criss-crossed with railroads--we had fun racing several of them from time to time. As you can see, there isn't much else to do on these open plains. I love noticing things like the herd of Angus on one side of the road being looked at and probably mooed at by the lone Angus on the other side. I actually didn't notice that until reviewing the pictures. LOL
There are not many towns along this route and those that do exist are pretty much empty and the buildings totally demolished, although made of stone. One place that is a crossroads of , not only rail lines, but also several major routes--one going south to Carrizozo, another north to Santa Rosa, another headed southeast to Roswell and ours headed west--is Vaughn. There are about seven motels and several restaurants and a couple of gas stations--all but one gas station standing empty and windowless. Why, I wonder, when these roads are so well traveled. Perhaps cars are so much better these days it is easy to get to those other places to stay or eat. It is high on the top of a crest and the wind is so awful there that, when Bill got out of the car to put air in a tire that has been problematic for awhile, he was almost unable to close the door ----he needed to have a foot outside to get a good grasp and then almost couldn't get it back in to get the door totally closed. Just awful. For a large part of the trip over we fought a strong head wind and our mileage, which had been 34-35 mpg and at one point 37mpg in Texas, dropped down to 33 mpg. That may have been partially due to the lost pressure in the left rear tire also.
One of the major features on this highway is a series of three dry lake beds--I have always been fascinated by them and probably have more pix of them than I'll ever need. They are known as playas and apparently are common on these high plains in eastern New Mexico as well as those of West Texas. Don't remember noticing them anywhere else. Their formation and locations and sizes are kind of interesting. Bonneville Salt Flats,which I've never seen,except in movies, is apparently a super large playa. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dry_lake
About 40 miles away from Belen is the town of Mountainair. Bill and I like the little cantina in the early 20th C. Hotel Shaeffer but as we pulled up a lady, carrying a cardboard tray of what I thought might be fresh baked goods, told us they were closed. We decided to cruise a couple of the few streets to see if there might be another spot to grab a light lunch. Found a neat little cafe--Alpine Alley Coffee Shop. The couple who own it work side by side behind the counter--neat relationship--quips and tripping over each other. She is a fifty-ish thin woman with a long gray braid--high energy bouncing out of every pore. He is more laid back, manning the grill with casual stride and movement. The room is very cozy--as you walk in the space to your right has three couches arranged in a square with one open side and a large coffee table in front of them. There are scattered tables with magazines and books and newspapers, several open front cabinets with shelves of books. On the left there is a space with three small tables and chairs and more cabinets and shelves. In front of you is a counter with high backed wooden chairs. We sat there with another traveler who soon left. Miss Energy came over having grabbed a couple of menus and said sit anywhere--we're used to people just grabbing the menus from wherever. There was a doddering old lady also behind the counter--she seemed to be doing a good job of getting in the way and not knowing quite what is going on--though it didn't seem to be that she was slow but rather that Energy girl just had her addled. Indeed, I'd be exhausted if I worked with her. Some guy came it and said to granny--hi, I didn't know you were working here. Energy said, oh, she's been here for years. The guy said--learn something new every day. Energy relented and said no, she came in this am when breakfast business was very busy so I asked her to grab some orders and we'd treat her to breakfast when things slowed down. Oh, the guy said, okay--so we were both right. LOL
Anyway, we ordered two pastrami on rye--no cheese--only mustard. Energy called us purists--indeed, I was a bit apprehensive at how pure the result would be. Well, wonders of wonders--the pastrami was STEAMED--yes!--not grilled or fried as I've gotten it in Vt --groan. It was piled high, the mustard was flavorful and the rye delicious. Who'da guessed??? When Energy told granny two p's on rye that did it--she was totally confused and retired. LOL I asked for sweet tea and Energy opened the cooler and with a flourish and bow pointed out the selection of bottled tea or said I could have fresh made. Opted for that--a carafe with hot water and tea bag--a huge glass of ice cubes--and the sweetener of my choice--blue, pink, yellow ( packets), we don't discriminate around here--and I chose honey, which came in a warm squeeze bottle so it flowed nice and golden into the amber tea. Delicious. A neat place--we will return. Two high school boys came in for lunch so I asked how big the school is--the senior class has 15. There are three schools in town and from K-12 there are about 500 kids, they are bussed from the small villages in the area as well as the townies. Reminded me of Chelsea. I could sub in such a place and love it, I think.
Then it was off once more through the rich red clayish rocks of the pass into the valley spreading in front of us and the Manzano Mountains off in front and then through a smaller pass and they move to our left and right. Here route 47 takes off sharply to the right and we go with it. We pass through the Terre Grande, a huge swath of the valley that is for sale--5 acre house sites sitting beneath these mountains that make the train running at its base look like a toy model. Through the years the number of house have grown and someday I'm sure the whole area will be developed. 47 takes us right into town and like locals we navigate through it to Sunrise Bluffs and our destination for the next two nights.
Gloria is a fabulous cook and after much chattering and getting caught up on all the news of the past year it was time for hamburgers from the grill served on her wonderful homemade rolls--there is not a hamburger bun in the world that can compare. We had macaroni-tuna salad and various additions such as tomato and onion etc with which to dress the hamburgers. Delicious. We watched the news and chattered some more, had a delicious cream pound cake confection with fresh raspberries and whipped cream and by 930 we all went to bed. We wanted to be rested for the next day's excursion to the Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge in Socorro. A favorite place of the four of us--so Gloria and Bud usually wait at this time of year for our arrival to head down for a visit.
For some reason I did not sleep as well as usual. Have no idea why--the room is the one we always stay in, the bed was incredibly comfortable and I opened the blinds a sliver so it wasn't too dark. I went out like a light when I went to bed but woke up around 230 and never got back to sleep until 5. I was worried since we'd agreed to get up at 7 and be on the road by 8. It is about an hour to an hour and a half down to Socorro and the earlier one gets to the refuge the more animals you are likely to see. Haven't a clue how my body did it but I woke up at 7 on the dot. Dressed and out to another great meal--OJ, coffee and the moistest banana chocolate chip muffins one could want.
Last year, Bud took us over to the Bernardo Management Area but they were in the process of redoing the roads etc and it was closed. So we started there. It is a really nice area also but most of the cranes have already left and so we saw one little group and nothing else. On we went to the Bosque, which is in San Antonio along the Rio Grande River. Neither is like their namesakes in Texas but I like the New Mexico version better. It always amuses me to think that this is the town in which Conrad Hilton grew up and the place in which he rented rooms out of his parents home in his youth. I've often wondered what Paris Hilton would make of the origins of the money that she so freely used to become a mean nothing celebrity.
As we approached the entrance to the refuge loop we came upon a fairly large flock of some sort of geese---snow? who have not yet headed North. Smart cookies--the blizzards up there would not be conducive to a happy early Spring. We came upon a great blue heron when first entering the south loop--he/she struck a super model pose for its glamour shot. We continued slowly along the deserted gravel loop road --saw small birds and many ducks of various types, including mallards. I love the guys who stand on their heads in the water--they are so comical. As we came around the far loop where Bud and Gloria have frequently seen large groups of deer we were amazed to see two PIGs crossing the road. This was a first for all three of us. Last year the surprise was posters all over the place warning about Mountain Lions--the posters were gone this year. Now we found pigs and as we moved in for a closer shot we discovered we'd found a whole group of pigs, including one little baby pig. It was fun to see them race across a clearing to get from one area of brush to another. I was amazed to see that the adults ran ahead and left the little guy to fend for himself--no wonder there was only one. I looked up feral hogs, wild pigs and, what I thought these are, peccaries on the Internet. It would appear that feral hogs are causing the same destruction in NM as they are in Georgia and the Northeast but they are peccaries--collared peccaries to be exact. http://www.picsearch.com/Collared-Peccary-pictures.html
As we continued round the loop to what is known as the farmland--large fields that are often planted with corn and are filled with cranes until the northward migration that starts in Feb--we entered the area that is most populated with hawks.
There was also a small group of mule deer, one of which had some really strange dark marks on its flank--close ups look as though they are wounds that are healing. Did this animal have a run in with one of those mountain lions and manage to escape?
Gloria and Bud had just picked up their new to them Chrysler Town and Country. They have three small grand-daughters and so, when they are visiting and want to go anywhere it has meant the use of two cars. This way they can all ride together. It rides like a dream, is roomy and the way the seats are arranged it is so much easier for the four of us to chat and comment on our surroundings. I love it and I know they are quite happy with it, too. Our excursion was the break-in trip. In "downtown" San Antonio there is a fairly well -known and critically acclaimed restaurant, the Owl. They are closed on Sunday and Monday and in all the years we've gone to the Bosque we've managed to be there when the Owl was closed. This time we hit it right--so we all agreed the time was now to try it out.
Bud ordered a chili cheeseburger and we were all amused at his attempts to pick it up and get a bite out of it. Gloria and I had straight cheeseburgers and Bill had Mexican chili--NOT Tex-Mex. The food was delicious and we all agreed, this is a place we'll come back to on our next visit to the Bosque, a place of serenity and beauty that we all love at any time of year.
Got back home around 130 and Gloria and I decided to take naps while Bill and Bud went over to the Moose Lodge to chat with the guys. Around 4, Gloria and I went into the scrap room and played on the computers, she showed me Mrs Brown's Boys in Utube--an hilarious British comedy. We had planned on meatloaf for dinner but after our beefy lunch we changed the menu to spaghetti and salad. That is one of our favorite meals served at Chez ComstockHill. She could serve that to us any time we visit. I've copied her sauce and salad preps ever since our first visit. It is just simply scrumptious and very easy. We then decided to give the Netflix exclusive House of Cards with Kevin Spacey a try and all decided it is a good show and we'll watch the remaining episodes. Once more we retired at 930 but I turned on TV in our room and watched the Charlie Rose interview of Sandra Day O'Connor and another with a Muslim professor at Oxford--I forget his name. I am quite fond of Rose--not confrontational but not soft in his questions. He takes more of a conversational approach which means he is batting ideas back and forth rather than grilling his guests. So came an end to our visit with our New Hampshire transplant friends. Only breakfast left and then we would continue our trek west.
Yesterday, up around 8---packed everything up, Bill loaded it in the car, got dressed and a nice repeat breakfast with Gloria and Bud. Bud wanted to get down to the glass shop before it closed since we'd discovered a chip in the Chrysler's windshield. We didn't notice it until we'd been driving awhile and i cannot believe that they would have missed it when looking over the car before purchase. It was a fair sized chip. I suspect we got it in the first refuge or on the Interstate headed to the Bosque. We in the meantime found that just sitting the left rear tire had gone from 34 psi to 21psi. So our first stop was Craig Tires, after hugs good-bye and promises to call to let them know whether or not to strip the beds--that's our joke--Gloria doesn't strip the beds until we are east of Albuquerque and we know we aren't stopping on the way home. The young man found a piece of metal--a rod like thing--so he was able to remove it and plug the hole. Thank goodness--we are driving with our studs and we surely did not want to buy four new tires, which we'd have had to do if we lost one studded tire and we're pretty sure we wouldn't have gotten snows in New Mexico--at least not this part without ordering them. The guy didn't charge us and Bill was going to drive off without giving the kid a tip!!!!! Are you kidding me--it would have been the hour's minimum labor at home at who knows what an hour! God!
Off we went out route 6 to the interstate with snow-covered Mt Taylor over in Grants leading us on. Left the Interstate around Grants and headed down to El Malpais---the land around an extinct volcano filled with hollow hardened lava tubes. Louis L'Amour said this is dangerous land, the tubes can collapse as you ride over them and the sharp lava will cut the legs of the horses. From there we continued to El Morro. We've been this way before several years ago, but I had chosen not to take the hike out to the inscriptions on the base of Morro and Bill decided he wanted me to walk it this time --that I would be glad to have seen it and that I could manage the mile hike if I took it slowly enough. How right he was--the pool making this an oasis in a desert area is still there( with a very mouthy crow protecting it). It has been used by Indians, Spanish explorers, pioneers, the Calvary etc and members of each of these groups has left historical graffiti on the walls of this rock. Much like my visits to European cathedrals I found myself awed by the fact that I was standing in the footsteps of people who had gone before me so long ago. Each had a story that we'll never know except in the context of the groups with which they traveled West and yet they were just like us. So amazing and I laugh that signs tell us we cannot add our names to the wall, not that I want to, but today it is defacement, then it was making notations that became history.
As we left the multicolored pinnacles loomed on our right side. We are beginning to reach the part of the country that I love--the strange and colorful formations that wind, rain and small particles of sand as well as rushing water has carved from the earth. Soon we arrived in Gallup for the night and headed over to Applebee's for steak dinner. Saw on the weather channel that we are in for rain and snow in the Mesa Verde-Four Corners-Monument Valley that we planned to explore. It should be cleared out by Sunday-Monday. So out came the maps. We decided with the shopping I wanted to do in Gallup and the distance to Mesa Verde that we would be better to head back south to Truth or Consequences for awhile and then return north to explore those areas. Watched Night and Day and then the Americans and so to sleep.
Signed up for another night in Gallup and this morning slept in until 9. Read the paper leisurely and had breakfast. Headed over to Perry Null's where I started my coral jewelry with a bracelet that fits into the curves of my turquoise one, and a pair of earrings that are not petit point or needlepoint. Karen was surprised but I told her I wanted the coral collection to be different than the turquoise. I did buy a pair of earrings with both stones--they dangle like chandeliers since my original turquoise are posts. They are small so that they don't compete with my squash blossom necklace when I wear it. But I wanted something more noticeable when I'm only wearing the bracelet. Having finished that we returned to the room and I did bookkeeping, spoke to Betsy who is doing alot of subbing and otherwise lounged around. Ate some delicious tuna-macaroni salad that the chef at Chez ComstockHill had packed up for me and read a bit. Tomorrow we'll head south and see if we can find some hot springs to soak in. So friends, we've caught you up on our adventure. For now, if you'd like, you may listen to a few of our favorite songs about New Mexico
http://archive.org/details/dmead2005-07-09 play New Mexico from the list on the right
and my especial favorite---http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aCw5DJoinI8
Until tomorrow--good night all KandB
Sunday, March 3, 2013
A Long Haul to Clovis, New Mexico
March 3, 2013 10:48 am MST Breakfast Room Comfort Inn Clovis, New Mexico
Good morning, all. I'm writing this on Sunday morning since the wi-fi just wouldn't connect with or without a wire in our room last night and I was changed and too tired to come work here in the breakfast room. This morning I took the computer into the business center and it connected momentarily. We'd already booked our room for another night, both of us needing a down day, but I told the girl at the desk that if we couldn't get the internet ( as it is advertised--but I wasn't nasty or demanding to her--she isn't responsible for poor connectivity in NM--we've had problems in Socorro and Gallup in the past ) we probably would not stay. She said that the wi-fi is only good at the front desk and in the breakfast room--so here I is. And it is, so far, terrific. As I've mentioned, we are really tired so will probably veg out with a foray into Clovis and Walmart for a birthday card for Betsy and later a romp across the parking lot to the nearby Mexican restaurant. It is sunny and supposed to reach 75 today--which will be the warmest temp we've had so far on the trip. If there is a bench or a park nearby we may just have to go outdoors. At any rate, I don't anticipate the need for much of a log or pictures tonight. We may be out of touch for several days--I don't use my computer when visiting friends and we are going to Belen tomorrow to spend a day or so with Gloria and Bud. After that we will be travelling around NM and Az and the service, as mentioned above is iffy. So, worry not, if you don't hear from us for a bit--it is just the Wild Unsettled West in which we are exploring! LOL
Yesterday was a strange day all around. I felt out of sorts on and off and there was no apparent reason for it. It started out fine--veal albanese for breakfast--lol and, while I was preoccupied with who knows what, Bill seems to have taken a wrong turn to Africa. Well, how else explain a house with fenced in acreage on one side with a herd of zebra and a couple of buffalo--skinny looking specimens, too? Again, the draught is severe here and when we do see cattle there is so little on the range I wonder what it is they are grazing upon.
We travelled out of Early on Rt 84 since it was right outside the motel but soon reached Ballinger where we switched onto a secondary road though not a Farm Road. We had decided to head to Lubbock and visit some of the museums there. The Wind Power Museum has always intrigued me and there is also a Silent Wings Museum which is about the use of gliders in WW II. We aren't familiar with that military application and have always thought it would be interesting to explore. Unfortunately, as soon as we departed Early I looked both museums up in the Lubbock brochure I picked up in the lobby. Well, it is winter don't you know--so they are only open Tues-Sat until 5. As it was Sat, we knew we wouldn't make the Wind Power Museum and the Silent Wings is open on Sunday but not until 1 and we didn't think we'd be staying there two nights. It was a real bummer--since I, more than Bill, hate eating up miles and miles and doing no learning or exploring along the way. The scenery is beautiful but it seems such a waste to be in an area and not see or learn anything about its history or current activities.
But the day was beautiful and the terrain new to us so we said, okay, we've been to Lubbock before and we'll be there again so we'll make sure we hit it at a better time. We are sort of pokey compared to these long haul trucks and locals who drive the posted 75 miles an hour so within a few minutes of leaving the Ballinger city limits we were passed by a tank truck from the Indian River area of Florida. I laughed and said what in heaven's name is he hauling--orange juice? and Bill said, no, grapefruit juice! To California!!!! Whatever it was and wherever he was going he surely left us in his dust! But seeing him inspired us to share our last blood orange.
Samuel J was well known, not for gambling with great charm across the west, but rather for his habit of allowing his cattle to wander, unbranded, wherever they wished to roam. When other cattlemen came across them they would, if they didn't claim them for themselves, say oh, they are Maverick's. Hence the term maverick for a person or bovine who goes through the world unchecked and free. My Dad was known to call me and Barb mavericks at times. As in " You two mavericks settle down and go to sleep " etc.
In the Bronte area we had entered yet another type of Texas terrain--the plateaus, mesas and canyons of West Texas. And with these ridges we came upon the first wind farms of this year's journey. I love these farms--I find them incredibly hypnotic and beautiful. At different times the rotating blades remind me of ballet dancers, seagulls, gymnasts pinning a perfect landing,pinwheels, and when there are several of them in a perfect line behind one another and out of sync, they remind me of an Alvin Ailey modern dance--all geometric and graceful. I love the white of them against a perfectly blue cloudless sky. I cannot understand why the people back home make such a production about them on our ridges. Thank God earlier folks didn't get all bent out of shape when the first electric and phone wires were strung. We'd still be running down to the creek with the wash, living with candles and sending smoke signals. Oh, wait, Rockefeller did have a problem with the wires, so he buried them in Woodstock--lol. I really love my picture of the high tension power lines running from the farm to Abilene, the wind farm and the tanker filled with some petroleum product. Says alot that shot.
Here at Bronte we took 277 toward Sweetwater--Bill said he wanted to go through Sweetwater, not Abilene--which I knew, duh!! So we took 70. He wanted to see Sweetwater, he said. Why? Who knows. When we got there he opted not to take Business 70 so haven't a clue what Sweetwater looks like!
Eventually, we left the high area and reached Roby and Rotan and on toward New Mexico through an area heavily planted with cotton. All the way through to Lubbock and then beyond, the main crop appears to be cotton. I don't usually think of this part of the country as cotton country--the old cotton fields back home, in my mind, are always in the southeast and south --east of the Mississippi. When we checked in the young lady at the desk said that it has been terrible for a number of years now--with the drought it has been hard to get a good crop.
About the only thing growing with any success are the desert and high chaparral crops of prickly pear cactus and mesquite. Of course, this IS the high chaparrals of Texas so that is not new, nor unusual---cotton is not native to this area and so needs more water than the native guys.
At Post we decided to get back on 84 and not fool around with Farm roads--we still had almost 50 miles to go to Lubbock and we both were tired. So we opted to continue on and pick up 84 again and into Lubbock directly. Bill was hungry so we pulled into Sonic--I always get one blizzard on the trip so decided this would be it. I allow myself one a year--this time instead of Oreo cookie I opted for Butterfinger! Also figured as long as we had bars it was as good a time as any to check out the motels in Lubbock. Good thing---something is going on there this week-end. All the motels were $119 and up and they were not accepting any discounts including senior. Oh, oh.
Time for an emergency meeting of the pilot and navigator. Which direction? Roswell, Clovis? Navigator doesn't like Roswell, plus we were there last year and Clovis is closer --pilot was in agreement so a reservation was made in Clovis and we tightened our seat belts for another 149 miles instead of 50. Fortunately, we would gain an hour as soon as we crossed the Tx-NM border giving us longer light but it sure didn't make the day any shorter!
By this time, I dozed on and off and while awake through Lubbock didn't take any pictures--not much to see there....during times when awake was very sad to see SNOW even though the temperature was 66. This area got clobbered last week--in some places like Clovis, almost 2 feet. These guys aren't used to that kind of snowfall. And at 66 degrees the snow was not melting very fast, so it was still deepish in places. It was interesting to see that the water did not flow from the patches as they melted but rather was absorbed directly into the ground beneath them. Obviously, this ground is not saturated even with the snow melt of 24 inches nor are the streams running with water.
Passed a few feed yards on the way to Falwell and the clouds started to form--strange faces with long flowing hair streaming behind them and a Roswell alien up to guard the border into New Mexico. I think I was getting fanciful in my fatigue. Got held up by a very long freight but when we crossed the tracks it was an hour earlier and we had entered the Land of Enchantment at last---see, enchanted--I'm NOT fanciful!
Soon, we arrived at our home away from home. Got upgraded to a suite and by liking this property on FB got an extra 5% off our bill so the room, every bit as nice as the one in Lubbock would have been, cost only $77 plus tax. A coup! Exhausted, and my stomach acting up a bit, I immediately donned my nightgown and pulled out my last Abita. Bill went next door to the Mexican restaurant and I ate sardines and saltines and was comfy. Watched some TV--Hullabaloo on PBS--and slept like a log until 8 this morning.
So, until we meet again, vegging out --sun is gone and wind picked up. Going to pick up a new book--not interested in Ty Cobb today and read Dream Lovers about Bobby Darin and Sandra Dee before, I've discovered. Wasn't worth the time the first go round don't think I'll bother with a reread. Bye, bye KandB
Good morning, all. I'm writing this on Sunday morning since the wi-fi just wouldn't connect with or without a wire in our room last night and I was changed and too tired to come work here in the breakfast room. This morning I took the computer into the business center and it connected momentarily. We'd already booked our room for another night, both of us needing a down day, but I told the girl at the desk that if we couldn't get the internet ( as it is advertised--but I wasn't nasty or demanding to her--she isn't responsible for poor connectivity in NM--we've had problems in Socorro and Gallup in the past ) we probably would not stay. She said that the wi-fi is only good at the front desk and in the breakfast room--so here I is. And it is, so far, terrific. As I've mentioned, we are really tired so will probably veg out with a foray into Clovis and Walmart for a birthday card for Betsy and later a romp across the parking lot to the nearby Mexican restaurant. It is sunny and supposed to reach 75 today--which will be the warmest temp we've had so far on the trip. If there is a bench or a park nearby we may just have to go outdoors. At any rate, I don't anticipate the need for much of a log or pictures tonight. We may be out of touch for several days--I don't use my computer when visiting friends and we are going to Belen tomorrow to spend a day or so with Gloria and Bud. After that we will be travelling around NM and Az and the service, as mentioned above is iffy. So, worry not, if you don't hear from us for a bit--it is just the Wild Unsettled West in which we are exploring! LOL
Yesterday was a strange day all around. I felt out of sorts on and off and there was no apparent reason for it. It started out fine--veal albanese for breakfast--lol and, while I was preoccupied with who knows what, Bill seems to have taken a wrong turn to Africa. Well, how else explain a house with fenced in acreage on one side with a herd of zebra and a couple of buffalo--skinny looking specimens, too? Again, the draught is severe here and when we do see cattle there is so little on the range I wonder what it is they are grazing upon.
We travelled out of Early on Rt 84 since it was right outside the motel but soon reached Ballinger where we switched onto a secondary road though not a Farm Road. We had decided to head to Lubbock and visit some of the museums there. The Wind Power Museum has always intrigued me and there is also a Silent Wings Museum which is about the use of gliders in WW II. We aren't familiar with that military application and have always thought it would be interesting to explore. Unfortunately, as soon as we departed Early I looked both museums up in the Lubbock brochure I picked up in the lobby. Well, it is winter don't you know--so they are only open Tues-Sat until 5. As it was Sat, we knew we wouldn't make the Wind Power Museum and the Silent Wings is open on Sunday but not until 1 and we didn't think we'd be staying there two nights. It was a real bummer--since I, more than Bill, hate eating up miles and miles and doing no learning or exploring along the way. The scenery is beautiful but it seems such a waste to be in an area and not see or learn anything about its history or current activities.
But the day was beautiful and the terrain new to us so we said, okay, we've been to Lubbock before and we'll be there again so we'll make sure we hit it at a better time. We are sort of pokey compared to these long haul trucks and locals who drive the posted 75 miles an hour so within a few minutes of leaving the Ballinger city limits we were passed by a tank truck from the Indian River area of Florida. I laughed and said what in heaven's name is he hauling--orange juice? and Bill said, no, grapefruit juice! To California!!!! Whatever it was and wherever he was going he surely left us in his dust! But seeing him inspired us to share our last blood orange.
Samuel J was well known, not for gambling with great charm across the west, but rather for his habit of allowing his cattle to wander, unbranded, wherever they wished to roam. When other cattlemen came across them they would, if they didn't claim them for themselves, say oh, they are Maverick's. Hence the term maverick for a person or bovine who goes through the world unchecked and free. My Dad was known to call me and Barb mavericks at times. As in " You two mavericks settle down and go to sleep " etc.
In the Bronte area we had entered yet another type of Texas terrain--the plateaus, mesas and canyons of West Texas. And with these ridges we came upon the first wind farms of this year's journey. I love these farms--I find them incredibly hypnotic and beautiful. At different times the rotating blades remind me of ballet dancers, seagulls, gymnasts pinning a perfect landing,pinwheels, and when there are several of them in a perfect line behind one another and out of sync, they remind me of an Alvin Ailey modern dance--all geometric and graceful. I love the white of them against a perfectly blue cloudless sky. I cannot understand why the people back home make such a production about them on our ridges. Thank God earlier folks didn't get all bent out of shape when the first electric and phone wires were strung. We'd still be running down to the creek with the wash, living with candles and sending smoke signals. Oh, wait, Rockefeller did have a problem with the wires, so he buried them in Woodstock--lol. I really love my picture of the high tension power lines running from the farm to Abilene, the wind farm and the tanker filled with some petroleum product. Says alot that shot.
Here at Bronte we took 277 toward Sweetwater--Bill said he wanted to go through Sweetwater, not Abilene--which I knew, duh!! So we took 70. He wanted to see Sweetwater, he said. Why? Who knows. When we got there he opted not to take Business 70 so haven't a clue what Sweetwater looks like!
Eventually, we left the high area and reached Roby and Rotan and on toward New Mexico through an area heavily planted with cotton. All the way through to Lubbock and then beyond, the main crop appears to be cotton. I don't usually think of this part of the country as cotton country--the old cotton fields back home, in my mind, are always in the southeast and south --east of the Mississippi. When we checked in the young lady at the desk said that it has been terrible for a number of years now--with the drought it has been hard to get a good crop.
About the only thing growing with any success are the desert and high chaparral crops of prickly pear cactus and mesquite. Of course, this IS the high chaparrals of Texas so that is not new, nor unusual---cotton is not native to this area and so needs more water than the native guys.
At Post we decided to get back on 84 and not fool around with Farm roads--we still had almost 50 miles to go to Lubbock and we both were tired. So we opted to continue on and pick up 84 again and into Lubbock directly. Bill was hungry so we pulled into Sonic--I always get one blizzard on the trip so decided this would be it. I allow myself one a year--this time instead of Oreo cookie I opted for Butterfinger! Also figured as long as we had bars it was as good a time as any to check out the motels in Lubbock. Good thing---something is going on there this week-end. All the motels were $119 and up and they were not accepting any discounts including senior. Oh, oh.
Time for an emergency meeting of the pilot and navigator. Which direction? Roswell, Clovis? Navigator doesn't like Roswell, plus we were there last year and Clovis is closer --pilot was in agreement so a reservation was made in Clovis and we tightened our seat belts for another 149 miles instead of 50. Fortunately, we would gain an hour as soon as we crossed the Tx-NM border giving us longer light but it sure didn't make the day any shorter!
By this time, I dozed on and off and while awake through Lubbock didn't take any pictures--not much to see there....during times when awake was very sad to see SNOW even though the temperature was 66. This area got clobbered last week--in some places like Clovis, almost 2 feet. These guys aren't used to that kind of snowfall. And at 66 degrees the snow was not melting very fast, so it was still deepish in places. It was interesting to see that the water did not flow from the patches as they melted but rather was absorbed directly into the ground beneath them. Obviously, this ground is not saturated even with the snow melt of 24 inches nor are the streams running with water.
Passed a few feed yards on the way to Falwell and the clouds started to form--strange faces with long flowing hair streaming behind them and a Roswell alien up to guard the border into New Mexico. I think I was getting fanciful in my fatigue. Got held up by a very long freight but when we crossed the tracks it was an hour earlier and we had entered the Land of Enchantment at last---see, enchanted--I'm NOT fanciful!
Soon, we arrived at our home away from home. Got upgraded to a suite and by liking this property on FB got an extra 5% off our bill so the room, every bit as nice as the one in Lubbock would have been, cost only $77 plus tax. A coup! Exhausted, and my stomach acting up a bit, I immediately donned my nightgown and pulled out my last Abita. Bill went next door to the Mexican restaurant and I ate sardines and saltines and was comfy. Watched some TV--Hullabaloo on PBS--and slept like a log until 8 this morning.
So, until we meet again, vegging out --sun is gone and wind picked up. Going to pick up a new book--not interested in Ty Cobb today and read Dream Lovers about Bobby Darin and Sandra Dee before, I've discovered. Wasn't worth the time the first go round don't think I'll bother with a reread. Bye, bye KandB
Friday, March 1, 2013
Fun Farm Roads of Texas
Friday March 1, 2013 Comfort Inn Room 203 Early, Texas
Left our beautiful suite around 930 this morning--50 degrees and sunny. Decided to follow 84 west for awhile to get past Palestine and the loop which we circled entirely last night upon arrival. Once free of it and I 45 traffic we headed out on the Farm Roads I love. At first, we were still in the Big Thicket with its tall pines. Even though it is wooded there are many ranches and all of them, no matter how large or small the house or trailer, has a high poled sign carrying the name of the spread. In Fairfield we shared the road with some big trucks but soon we were on the two lane, narrow country roads that we so enjoy. We laughed when we came upon some sort of road work--complete with flagman and a pilot truck to take us the 500 feet over the single lane. Hilarious!
In time we left the trees behind and the pastures of beef cattle spread out all around us. Some of the ranch houses are incredibly huge and elegant. But on such open land they don't look like the McMansions we see on relatively small plots in the East. These are dwarfed by the surroundings. When we reached Birome and Farm Road 339 we came across empty houses and barns surrounded by beautiful fields that appear to have been plowed in places already this year. The area looked as though it now was one spread where before it may have been several. We think that someone may have bought out the smaller places and the houses were just deserted. One in particular struck my when I saw the nice door and what were left of flowers under a tree in the front yard. Wonder what family lived there and what life was like in that house.
Now that we had finally made our way West of Waco we were able to pick up 2114, another Farm Road that ran a good distance west. Until then we'd had to go from one to the other, swinging north, then west, then south then west once more. This road started off with sweeping curves through beautiful farm land but no idea what was to be planted on it. We passed through several small towns but a really neat one was the town of West, Tx. It looks as though the main inhabitants are descendants of Czech immigrants. The Czech-American restaurant looked really interesting but we'd only eaten breakfast about an hour earlier and just had no desire for lunch yet. If only we'd known, we'd have waited to eat there. It, like several other towns we've passed through, grew around the railroad--a crossroads of sorts. Now, just around the corner and still running through the town, the crossroads is formed by I 35. We, however, continued across the Brazos on the Farm Road. We love that we travel such back roads that it is not unusual to come across a guy riding his bike, merrily listening to something--music, a book on tape, the news?? Back and forth we guessed what it might be. Whatever, he was pedaling along apace and gave us a chipper wave as we passed.
2114 gave way to Farm Road 219 and the flat fields gave way to Texas hill country. We were northwest of Austin at this point. Texas is such a huge State that the topography is really startling--there is such diversity east to west, north to south. I really love this State, for this reason. Louisiana for its heritage; Texas for its geography. We crossed the Bosque and discovered that the area was heavily populated by Norwegian immigrants. A town called Norse was a few miles up a dead end road and I wanted to go to see the church there, wondering if it was one of the beautiful wooden Norwegian churches that were built in Minnesota by the Norwegians there. But, no--no detours for Bill. My sister would have gone round that turn toward Norse on two wheels--lol! A few miles along I forgave Bill the Church when he turned back to let me get some shots of the goats in Mary Dacey's Goat Patch. The gate stands wide open and one would think those goats of all sizes and ages would amble out on the road at will, until you look more closely and see that the three dogs probably would have something to say about it. The guy on the right was hidden from my view when we first pulled up and the other two had their heads in the chow buckets. The one behind the gate was standing at attention and watching us closely. The other two lifted their heads and gave us the once over, too. Then, apparently deciding we weren't coming in, guy on the right laid down and went to sleep. The other two went back to lunch.
Directly across the road? Smith Show Lambs--securely fenced in. Bill said " No dog!" LOL We then came to Cranfill's Gap and back to lower and flatter ground. When we reached Hamilton and picked up Farm Road 218 the names of the towns sounded awfully familiar and as we passed through them--Pottsville, Indian Gap--they looked very familiar. Especially Priddy. That sign--I commented on it last year--Pirates in the middle of Texas. This area is almost ghost town like. There are signs--caution the road may be flooded--and I'm afraid these people wish the road would flood. The creeks are dry as a bone. This is the draught-torn Texas. Deserted buildings, fields that haven't been worked in ages, a school whose windows are broken out--most of the people have left. Others have for sale signs on the gate and others have herds of goats! Not a sign of cattle anywhere. There just is no feed. These are the people who had to slaughter their animals for lack of feed. Goats can survive on less but what is the benefit of goat? Chevre, certainly. Maybe milk in some markets but goat isn't a big meat source in our country. Even most immigrants don't eat goat--lamb, yes. Perhaps there is a market for goat meat somewhere?
At Zephyr we rejoined Rte 84 and continued to our motel in Early. All rooms are suites and all are $95 with our senior discount. Well, it is still cheaper than Binghamton, New York--LOL and Early is the only game for miles around so this is it. Actually, quite a comfy room with a round soft easy chair to curl up on to watch TV or read. We walked across the parking lot and had some of the best Italian food I've had in ages. Bill had sausage pizzaola and I had veal albanese. Both just delicious. Don't know what I was thinking--I had a Lone Star Bock instead of merlot. Finished with black coffee since they had no cordials--a limoncello would have been perfect. But I'm not complaining--the meal was just wonderful. If you'd like to salivate a bit here is the link to the menu:
http://www.ourmenuonline.com/PDFMenus/Gatesville/Gatesville-PrimaPastaRistoranteItaliano&Pizzeria.pdf
Here are a couple of links to get your toes tapping:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LpulhD-5CyM
and
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=maELRCfx3Vw
When we got into the room I checked my photos from last year--we traveled from Temple Tx to Big Spring Tx last year--a long day. Most of it was spent in terrible rain, temperature 40's and all Farm Roads. We traveled the same road from Hamilton to Early through Pottsville etc and I took some of the same pix--including a much better shot of the Priddy welcome sign--LOL Well, I guess my navigational skills haven't diminished --there really wasn't a better way unless we just followed 84 all the way from Palestine--but what fun would that have been??LOL
So now, we are probably going to spend another night in Texas and enter New Mexico on Sunday. We just have to decide how we want to enter--we've been pretty much every way from here--do we want to go to Roswell again? Clovis? Through Odessa? or Lubbock? I like Lubbock--well, tomorrow night I'll fill you in--how do you feel about a windmill museum? Think about it--until then, hugs to all KandB
Left our beautiful suite around 930 this morning--50 degrees and sunny. Decided to follow 84 west for awhile to get past Palestine and the loop which we circled entirely last night upon arrival. Once free of it and I 45 traffic we headed out on the Farm Roads I love. At first, we were still in the Big Thicket with its tall pines. Even though it is wooded there are many ranches and all of them, no matter how large or small the house or trailer, has a high poled sign carrying the name of the spread. In Fairfield we shared the road with some big trucks but soon we were on the two lane, narrow country roads that we so enjoy. We laughed when we came upon some sort of road work--complete with flagman and a pilot truck to take us the 500 feet over the single lane. Hilarious!
In time we left the trees behind and the pastures of beef cattle spread out all around us. Some of the ranch houses are incredibly huge and elegant. But on such open land they don't look like the McMansions we see on relatively small plots in the East. These are dwarfed by the surroundings. When we reached Birome and Farm Road 339 we came across empty houses and barns surrounded by beautiful fields that appear to have been plowed in places already this year. The area looked as though it now was one spread where before it may have been several. We think that someone may have bought out the smaller places and the houses were just deserted. One in particular struck my when I saw the nice door and what were left of flowers under a tree in the front yard. Wonder what family lived there and what life was like in that house.
Now that we had finally made our way West of Waco we were able to pick up 2114, another Farm Road that ran a good distance west. Until then we'd had to go from one to the other, swinging north, then west, then south then west once more. This road started off with sweeping curves through beautiful farm land but no idea what was to be planted on it. We passed through several small towns but a really neat one was the town of West, Tx. It looks as though the main inhabitants are descendants of Czech immigrants. The Czech-American restaurant looked really interesting but we'd only eaten breakfast about an hour earlier and just had no desire for lunch yet. If only we'd known, we'd have waited to eat there. It, like several other towns we've passed through, grew around the railroad--a crossroads of sorts. Now, just around the corner and still running through the town, the crossroads is formed by I 35. We, however, continued across the Brazos on the Farm Road. We love that we travel such back roads that it is not unusual to come across a guy riding his bike, merrily listening to something--music, a book on tape, the news?? Back and forth we guessed what it might be. Whatever, he was pedaling along apace and gave us a chipper wave as we passed.
2114 gave way to Farm Road 219 and the flat fields gave way to Texas hill country. We were northwest of Austin at this point. Texas is such a huge State that the topography is really startling--there is such diversity east to west, north to south. I really love this State, for this reason. Louisiana for its heritage; Texas for its geography. We crossed the Bosque and discovered that the area was heavily populated by Norwegian immigrants. A town called Norse was a few miles up a dead end road and I wanted to go to see the church there, wondering if it was one of the beautiful wooden Norwegian churches that were built in Minnesota by the Norwegians there. But, no--no detours for Bill. My sister would have gone round that turn toward Norse on two wheels--lol! A few miles along I forgave Bill the Church when he turned back to let me get some shots of the goats in Mary Dacey's Goat Patch. The gate stands wide open and one would think those goats of all sizes and ages would amble out on the road at will, until you look more closely and see that the three dogs probably would have something to say about it. The guy on the right was hidden from my view when we first pulled up and the other two had their heads in the chow buckets. The one behind the gate was standing at attention and watching us closely. The other two lifted their heads and gave us the once over, too. Then, apparently deciding we weren't coming in, guy on the right laid down and went to sleep. The other two went back to lunch.
Directly across the road? Smith Show Lambs--securely fenced in. Bill said " No dog!" LOL We then came to Cranfill's Gap and back to lower and flatter ground. When we reached Hamilton and picked up Farm Road 218 the names of the towns sounded awfully familiar and as we passed through them--Pottsville, Indian Gap--they looked very familiar. Especially Priddy. That sign--I commented on it last year--Pirates in the middle of Texas. This area is almost ghost town like. There are signs--caution the road may be flooded--and I'm afraid these people wish the road would flood. The creeks are dry as a bone. This is the draught-torn Texas. Deserted buildings, fields that haven't been worked in ages, a school whose windows are broken out--most of the people have left. Others have for sale signs on the gate and others have herds of goats! Not a sign of cattle anywhere. There just is no feed. These are the people who had to slaughter their animals for lack of feed. Goats can survive on less but what is the benefit of goat? Chevre, certainly. Maybe milk in some markets but goat isn't a big meat source in our country. Even most immigrants don't eat goat--lamb, yes. Perhaps there is a market for goat meat somewhere?
At Zephyr we rejoined Rte 84 and continued to our motel in Early. All rooms are suites and all are $95 with our senior discount. Well, it is still cheaper than Binghamton, New York--LOL and Early is the only game for miles around so this is it. Actually, quite a comfy room with a round soft easy chair to curl up on to watch TV or read. We walked across the parking lot and had some of the best Italian food I've had in ages. Bill had sausage pizzaola and I had veal albanese. Both just delicious. Don't know what I was thinking--I had a Lone Star Bock instead of merlot. Finished with black coffee since they had no cordials--a limoncello would have been perfect. But I'm not complaining--the meal was just wonderful. If you'd like to salivate a bit here is the link to the menu:
http://www.ourmenuonline.com/PDFMenus/Gatesville/Gatesville-PrimaPastaRistoranteItaliano&Pizzeria.pdf
Here are a couple of links to get your toes tapping:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LpulhD-5CyM
and
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=maELRCfx3Vw
When we got into the room I checked my photos from last year--we traveled from Temple Tx to Big Spring Tx last year--a long day. Most of it was spent in terrible rain, temperature 40's and all Farm Roads. We traveled the same road from Hamilton to Early through Pottsville etc and I took some of the same pix--including a much better shot of the Priddy welcome sign--LOL Well, I guess my navigational skills haven't diminished --there really wasn't a better way unless we just followed 84 all the way from Palestine--but what fun would that have been??LOL
So now, we are probably going to spend another night in Texas and enter New Mexico on Sunday. We just have to decide how we want to enter--we've been pretty much every way from here--do we want to go to Roswell again? Clovis? Through Odessa? or Lubbock? I like Lubbock--well, tomorrow night I'll fill you in--how do you feel about a windmill museum? Think about it--until then, hugs to all KandB
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