Kind of slow moving this morning but we left Gallup at about 10ish after stopping at the ATM to refuel. Out to Window Rock and entrance to Arizona, which is celebrating its centennial this year. We timed and measured mileage from there to Chimle and the Canyon. About 85 miles and an hour and a half. Wanted to know since it is Spring break for a lot of people and we weren't sure if the Holiday Inn or the Best Western at Chimle would have a vacancy.
Got to the Visitors' Center and they provided us with a list of tour providers--one of which was the Thunderbird Lodge right at the beginning of the South Rim drive. Made reservations for the tour for half day starting tomorrow morning. Came back to the Lodge office and rented a room for the night. I also bought some more Navajo Tea--mint this time and a shot glass and lots of post cards of the Canyon. Professional photographers always provide great supplementation to my photographic efforts.
Returned to the room and caught up on email and banking, took a nap, went to the cafeteria for corned beef and cabbage and took a late afternoon ride through the Canyon. I wanted to see sunset from the top and moonrise. Got the sunset--moonrise happens to much later.
Early tomorrow we check out, get breakfast and off we go. If we love it, we'll return some day for a full day tour. I'm so excited. I'll get to see things from the floor of the Canyon that I've seen from the top and also things I was afraid to look over the top to see. Stay tuned--I think the next blog is going to be full of wonder! Nightie-Night all!
Wednesday, March 14, 2012
Tuesday, March 13, 2012
Between Us We May Have Two Good Legs!
After tootling about Grants a few minutes we headed out Old Rte 66 toward Gallup, where we decided we would try to rest our old legs and I could catch up on blog and pix.
Arriving in Gallup the first stop had to be Perry Null Trading Co. I've had my heart set on a turquoise bracelet I saw on their site last Fall. Wasn't sure it would fit my wrist so waited to go to the store. It is beautiful and I bought a small ring, too. My Zuni turquoise jewelry is now complete. Next year I'll begin my coral set, I hope.
Lunch at Applebee's and then a frustrating afternoon of an internet connection that varied from four to two bars constantly. I must have called the front office to reset the modem or whatever--the access point--I don't know. I wasn't too pleasant about the fifth time but I took a break for chicken wings and a pepsi and then resumed. Now at 112am your time but only 1112 my time I will go to bed. Calmly, so maybe I'll sleep better than last night.
Tomorrow Chimle, Az to see if we can arrange for a jeep tour of Canyon de Chelley. The only place on the list of attractions that we haven't visited is Chaco Canyon but it is too wet this time of year and very easy to get stuck and lost. Some Day!
So until I have the incredible pictures from the floor of the Canyon, I bid you a fine good night.
Arriving in Gallup the first stop had to be Perry Null Trading Co. I've had my heart set on a turquoise bracelet I saw on their site last Fall. Wasn't sure it would fit my wrist so waited to go to the store. It is beautiful and I bought a small ring, too. My Zuni turquoise jewelry is now complete. Next year I'll begin my coral set, I hope.
Lunch at Applebee's and then a frustrating afternoon of an internet connection that varied from four to two bars constantly. I must have called the front office to reset the modem or whatever--the access point--I don't know. I wasn't too pleasant about the fifth time but I took a break for chicken wings and a pepsi and then resumed. Now at 112am your time but only 1112 my time I will go to bed. Calmly, so maybe I'll sleep better than last night.
Tomorrow Chimle, Az to see if we can arrange for a jeep tour of Canyon de Chelley. The only place on the list of attractions that we haven't visited is Chaco Canyon but it is too wet this time of year and very easy to get stuck and lost. Some Day!
So until I have the incredible pictures from the floor of the Canyon, I bid you a fine good night.
Acoma Pueblo--Sky City
Monday we got our things together and had an last breakfast with Bud and Gloria. They aren't going to change the sheets, in case, like last year, we return East on a path that brings us close to them. After many hugs and good-byes we headed northwest on rte 6 which bypasses Albuquerque and connects to I 40 at appropriately named Highland Meadows. So many reservations come together at this spot that for most of the area around Alb and all the way to Grants you travel on Indian land of one tribe or another. Many of the native villages are perched against the mesas and in many cases the only building that stands out against the background is the Mission Church--such is the case in Laguna. Soon we came to exit 108 and the road to Sky City.
We had chosen not to go there last year because I feared the heights that the name implied. Bud and Gloria assured me that the city is high but it is on a flat mesa and that there would be no drop offs to frighten me. So this year we ventured to the Visitors' Center where tickets for a tour are purchased. The tickets also provide a permit for still photography only. I asked about photographing people and was told to ask but that a gratuity was not necessary nor was one necessary for the guide, who is a native Acoman.
Though there is a road to the top of the mesa visitors are transported by bus on a road, we later learned, was paid for by Henry Fonda. He wanted to film there and needed a way to transport all the equipment and people so he built a road. Nice for the 200+ families that lived here year round. But I'm getting ahead of myself.
When we reached the top we were greeted by a man of indeterminate age. I imagine he is in his late 20's, early 30's since he is an EMT and firefighter--that is usually a young man's game. He was born here and returned in grade school to live with his grandmother while his Dad sought work and a place to live. But at this point he told us of the history of this place. It was chosen because it is in a high position over the valley--easily defensible and also a great vantage point for any oncoming enemy tribes. In time the enemy was not the other Indians but the Spanish and because of superior manpower and weapons the natives were subdued and enslaved.
There is not now, nor has there ever been, electricity or water on the mesa. Some of the remaining 20 families have generators but they must still cart water up from the valley below. There are several natural cisterns which fill with rain water or snow melt and this water was traditionally the water used. Because of this lack many of the families moved down into the valley at the turn of the 20th C to be near the river that runs by the new village--Acomita.
Despite leaving the mesa the homes remain in the families. They are never sold or passed out of the family. It is a matriarchal community so the youngest girl inherits. If there is no youngest daughter then the youngest son inherits. No son? youngest daughter of the closest extended family member. If the home is not maintained it is taken over from the family by the tribal council which decides who gets it. The tribal council also determines who the community leaders are. At one time the clan with the greatest number of members made up the tribal council, however, the Antelope clan was the majority when the Spanish took over, so the Antelope clan members continue to make up the tribal council.
You will notice that our guide, Limbert Martinez ( Spaniards couldn't pronounce the Native names so they gave the families Spanish names and they have continued to use them.) is at times quite close to the edge and that we are quite high. Only once did I use another street and an alley to meet the group and thus avoided walking the edge. BTW, one of the members of our group was a Spaniard from Spain whose last name is Martinez. He said he was not responsible for the suffering of the Acoma at the hands of the friars who came to the Pueblo. We all laughed at his laughing denial.
Scattered throughout the village are ovens that may be used by any in the village---they can hold up to 100 loaves of bread so usually there is a major community bake. Just as the communal gathering of materials and labor to build and/or repair the homes.
Below the mesa are the fields used by the tribe as open range and also planting. In the shot of the road from the top the rock formation on the right is the one that Ford used to introduce its Ford 250 or some such number truck. They airlifted it with a helicopter to the top--but to Limbert's disappointment took the truck with them when they were finished.
Bill is standing next to a ladder that leads to a kiva, which is an important religious room entered through a hole in the roof. Legend has it that the people arose from the earth into the land and cloud through a hole in the earth. The ladder has pointed tops to pierce the clouds, represented by the carving holding the sidebars together. There are two sets of stairs--one to go up and the other to come down. There is a kiva in each of the four directions on the mesa. Men only. Though men join the clan of their wives. Children have a major clan which is their mother's and a minor clan--their dad's.
As we wended our way to the starting point the Mission Church of San Esteban we came past the plaza where all of the festivals and celebrations are held. The elders sit along the side in the best seats as the parades and other ceremonies take place. For some the public are allowed, for others the Acoma keep to themselves. There is only one tree on the mesa--a cottonwood and Limbert told us we were now in the Acoma National Forest! We also met his grandmother and he pointed out the house in which he grew up--the one with the ribbon of decoration added by a cousin. He invited us to knock on the door any time we returned and we would be welcome for a meal and visit.
We then arrived at the Church. The balcony at top was the classroom in which the villagers were taught Catholicism and Spanish. None of them speak Spanish now. Below the balcony is the jail in which the friars incarcerated those who resisted this civilizing instruction. As we entered the wall surrounding the cemetery and the Church entrance we were reminded that pictures were not allowed and men needed to remove their hats.
It is difficult to describe the Church--it is thick walled adobe that tapers in thickness from bottom to top. As can be imagined there is a significant temperature gradient between the outside and inside even in winter. Having no electricity the interior is illuminated by highly placed windows and in winter by candles. The Bells were given to the village by the Spanish King as were the Stations of the Cross. The ceiling is high and held up by huge logs that had been carried by teams of 20 men on their shoulders from Mt Taylor--that snow capped mountain seen in the background several times--a good 30 miles away. AND they were not allowed to touch the ground in transit. No roads, no stairs and slave Acomans. BTW, the Friars' garden, which was in the courtyard behind the classroom, was tended by the women, also slaves. How embarrassing!
The tour then ended with some people, including Bill, choosing to descend by the ancient stairs. I knew I could not walk off into space like that but Bill said it was even worse lower down where he had to walk leaning backward and hold the holes in the walls the descent was so steep. His legs were extremely rubbery and I think he was surprised at the affect. His greater surprise is that there were no notices of danger or warnings or notification of lack of responsibility for injury or worse. He said this would never happen in the suit conscious east.
At any rate, after a quick jaunt through the gift shop we headed on our way to I 40 west and Grants where we spent the night. Despite the fact that the town is destitute since old 66 was superseded, there is a rather nice steak house and after 2 1/2 hours of walking in the thin air we decided we earned a nice prime rib.
We had chosen not to go there last year because I feared the heights that the name implied. Bud and Gloria assured me that the city is high but it is on a flat mesa and that there would be no drop offs to frighten me. So this year we ventured to the Visitors' Center where tickets for a tour are purchased. The tickets also provide a permit for still photography only. I asked about photographing people and was told to ask but that a gratuity was not necessary nor was one necessary for the guide, who is a native Acoman.
Though there is a road to the top of the mesa visitors are transported by bus on a road, we later learned, was paid for by Henry Fonda. He wanted to film there and needed a way to transport all the equipment and people so he built a road. Nice for the 200+ families that lived here year round. But I'm getting ahead of myself.
When we reached the top we were greeted by a man of indeterminate age. I imagine he is in his late 20's, early 30's since he is an EMT and firefighter--that is usually a young man's game. He was born here and returned in grade school to live with his grandmother while his Dad sought work and a place to live. But at this point he told us of the history of this place. It was chosen because it is in a high position over the valley--easily defensible and also a great vantage point for any oncoming enemy tribes. In time the enemy was not the other Indians but the Spanish and because of superior manpower and weapons the natives were subdued and enslaved.
There is not now, nor has there ever been, electricity or water on the mesa. Some of the remaining 20 families have generators but they must still cart water up from the valley below. There are several natural cisterns which fill with rain water or snow melt and this water was traditionally the water used. Because of this lack many of the families moved down into the valley at the turn of the 20th C to be near the river that runs by the new village--Acomita.
Despite leaving the mesa the homes remain in the families. They are never sold or passed out of the family. It is a matriarchal community so the youngest girl inherits. If there is no youngest daughter then the youngest son inherits. No son? youngest daughter of the closest extended family member. If the home is not maintained it is taken over from the family by the tribal council which decides who gets it. The tribal council also determines who the community leaders are. At one time the clan with the greatest number of members made up the tribal council, however, the Antelope clan was the majority when the Spanish took over, so the Antelope clan members continue to make up the tribal council.
You will notice that our guide, Limbert Martinez ( Spaniards couldn't pronounce the Native names so they gave the families Spanish names and they have continued to use them.) is at times quite close to the edge and that we are quite high. Only once did I use another street and an alley to meet the group and thus avoided walking the edge. BTW, one of the members of our group was a Spaniard from Spain whose last name is Martinez. He said he was not responsible for the suffering of the Acoma at the hands of the friars who came to the Pueblo. We all laughed at his laughing denial.
Scattered throughout the village are ovens that may be used by any in the village---they can hold up to 100 loaves of bread so usually there is a major community bake. Just as the communal gathering of materials and labor to build and/or repair the homes.
Below the mesa are the fields used by the tribe as open range and also planting. In the shot of the road from the top the rock formation on the right is the one that Ford used to introduce its Ford 250 or some such number truck. They airlifted it with a helicopter to the top--but to Limbert's disappointment took the truck with them when they were finished.
Bill is standing next to a ladder that leads to a kiva, which is an important religious room entered through a hole in the roof. Legend has it that the people arose from the earth into the land and cloud through a hole in the earth. The ladder has pointed tops to pierce the clouds, represented by the carving holding the sidebars together. There are two sets of stairs--one to go up and the other to come down. There is a kiva in each of the four directions on the mesa. Men only. Though men join the clan of their wives. Children have a major clan which is their mother's and a minor clan--their dad's.
As we wended our way to the starting point the Mission Church of San Esteban we came past the plaza where all of the festivals and celebrations are held. The elders sit along the side in the best seats as the parades and other ceremonies take place. For some the public are allowed, for others the Acoma keep to themselves. There is only one tree on the mesa--a cottonwood and Limbert told us we were now in the Acoma National Forest! We also met his grandmother and he pointed out the house in which he grew up--the one with the ribbon of decoration added by a cousin. He invited us to knock on the door any time we returned and we would be welcome for a meal and visit.
We then arrived at the Church. The balcony at top was the classroom in which the villagers were taught Catholicism and Spanish. None of them speak Spanish now. Below the balcony is the jail in which the friars incarcerated those who resisted this civilizing instruction. As we entered the wall surrounding the cemetery and the Church entrance we were reminded that pictures were not allowed and men needed to remove their hats.
It is difficult to describe the Church--it is thick walled adobe that tapers in thickness from bottom to top. As can be imagined there is a significant temperature gradient between the outside and inside even in winter. Having no electricity the interior is illuminated by highly placed windows and in winter by candles. The Bells were given to the village by the Spanish King as were the Stations of the Cross. The ceiling is high and held up by huge logs that had been carried by teams of 20 men on their shoulders from Mt Taylor--that snow capped mountain seen in the background several times--a good 30 miles away. AND they were not allowed to touch the ground in transit. No roads, no stairs and slave Acomans. BTW, the Friars' garden, which was in the courtyard behind the classroom, was tended by the women, also slaves. How embarrassing!
The tour then ended with some people, including Bill, choosing to descend by the ancient stairs. I knew I could not walk off into space like that but Bill said it was even worse lower down where he had to walk leaning backward and hold the holes in the walls the descent was so steep. His legs were extremely rubbery and I think he was surprised at the affect. His greater surprise is that there were no notices of danger or warnings or notification of lack of responsibility for injury or worse. He said this would never happen in the suit conscious east.
At any rate, after a quick jaunt through the gift shop we headed on our way to I 40 west and Grants where we spent the night. Despite the fact that the town is destitute since old 66 was superseded, there is a rather nice steak house and after 2 1/2 hours of walking in the thin air we decided we earned a nice prime rib.
A Lazy Day With Friends
On Sunday we ladies slept in for a bit later than the men, who seem to rise with the sun. Then we had leisurely breakfast while we planned our day. Since Bill really doesn't like to drive into cities, Gloria and I decided to take a spin into Albuquerque to see Old Town and do a little Michael's shopping. Bud wanted to watch the race from Vegas and Bill opted to stay with him. No surprise there! LOL
As we went down the Main St which also happens to be old 66--sight of our Tulsa debacle and far more traffic-y than that day--I was taken with the art deco and modern art architecture. What a very artistic city---it is quite obvious from downtown that there is much going on culturally. Old Town is quite quaint and St Phillippi Neri is a beautiful mission Church. We went into a little shop and Gloria got the most adorable knitted finger puppets for Lisa and Gia, her grandbabies. One puppet was a lion, which I just loved. She had had a lamb that was cute, too, but discovered a monkey with a banana that is a scream. I picked up a cute little vase for my shadow box--sort of Spanish white with a blue flower and an Alb shot glass for Jeff, a friend back home. We chatted quite awhile with the man that I think is the owner about living in NM from NE. Then we strolled along the way taking in the wares of several Indians. Lots of really pretty jewelry but Gloria and I agreed that we have so much jewelry that we don't wear some of it. We tend to have favorite pieces that we wear often and others that we forget we have. She has told Bud to stop buying her jewelry. There was some interesting pottery and I was taken with one glassy black one that was etched with cultural symbols and had a dragonfly etched inside. Dragonflies are protective and so this one would protect whatever went in the bowl. Her price was reasonable and she was a nice lady but, while I liked the bowl, I didn't love it. For some reason my back started to bother me and I just couldn't walk anymore. I had taken two Aleve before we left home hoping to hold pain off but for some reason it did not work! I felt so badly that Gloria had taken us all the way up there and in no time at all I couldn't enjoy it. We went over to a Mexican market but I just decided I had to rest for a bit more.
At Michael's we did a bit of scrapbook shopping and picked up a couple of dolls for the girls. One is named Olivia and that is Lisa's favorite name. So even though we didn't stay out as long as we might have we still had a lot of fun. We find so much to chat about.When we got home, Gloria taught me how to do iris folding. I'm so excited--it is so easy and is so beautiful when it is finished. I'm even going to buy the book she has because it has so many great patterns. Also, the lady that runs the Hen House is going to sell me a great holder for my sparkly glues--the name of which escapes me at the moment. I want to say Sprinkles but that isn't it. God,it's a pain getting senile!
We joined the guys for the end of the race and then had some of Gloria's homemade Chili. I know I rave about that girl's meals but she is one of the best cooks I know. I've never eaten anything she's made that I haven't thoroughly enjoyed and Bill says its yummy, too.
We all watched Harry's Law and Them Idiots which is the new road show of
Jeff Foxworthy, Larry the Cable Guy and that other guy. Talk about pissing your pants funny. Those guys are terrific. We stuffed our faces with popcorn and it was just like being at the movies! LOL Fun!! and then bedtime once more!
As we went down the Main St which also happens to be old 66--sight of our Tulsa debacle and far more traffic-y than that day--I was taken with the art deco and modern art architecture. What a very artistic city---it is quite obvious from downtown that there is much going on culturally. Old Town is quite quaint and St Phillippi Neri is a beautiful mission Church. We went into a little shop and Gloria got the most adorable knitted finger puppets for Lisa and Gia, her grandbabies. One puppet was a lion, which I just loved. She had had a lamb that was cute, too, but discovered a monkey with a banana that is a scream. I picked up a cute little vase for my shadow box--sort of Spanish white with a blue flower and an Alb shot glass for Jeff, a friend back home. We chatted quite awhile with the man that I think is the owner about living in NM from NE. Then we strolled along the way taking in the wares of several Indians. Lots of really pretty jewelry but Gloria and I agreed that we have so much jewelry that we don't wear some of it. We tend to have favorite pieces that we wear often and others that we forget we have. She has told Bud to stop buying her jewelry. There was some interesting pottery and I was taken with one glassy black one that was etched with cultural symbols and had a dragonfly etched inside. Dragonflies are protective and so this one would protect whatever went in the bowl. Her price was reasonable and she was a nice lady but, while I liked the bowl, I didn't love it. For some reason my back started to bother me and I just couldn't walk anymore. I had taken two Aleve before we left home hoping to hold pain off but for some reason it did not work! I felt so badly that Gloria had taken us all the way up there and in no time at all I couldn't enjoy it. We went over to a Mexican market but I just decided I had to rest for a bit more.
At Michael's we did a bit of scrapbook shopping and picked up a couple of dolls for the girls. One is named Olivia and that is Lisa's favorite name. So even though we didn't stay out as long as we might have we still had a lot of fun. We find so much to chat about.When we got home, Gloria taught me how to do iris folding. I'm so excited--it is so easy and is so beautiful when it is finished. I'm even going to buy the book she has because it has so many great patterns. Also, the lady that runs the Hen House is going to sell me a great holder for my sparkly glues--the name of which escapes me at the moment. I want to say Sprinkles but that isn't it. God,it's a pain getting senile!
We joined the guys for the end of the race and then had some of Gloria's homemade Chili. I know I rave about that girl's meals but she is one of the best cooks I know. I've never eaten anything she's made that I haven't thoroughly enjoyed and Bill says its yummy, too.
We all watched Harry's Law and Them Idiots which is the new road show of
Jeff Foxworthy, Larry the Cable Guy and that other guy. Talk about pissing your pants funny. Those guys are terrific. We stuffed our faces with popcorn and it was just like being at the movies! LOL Fun!! and then bedtime once more!
On the Way to Gloria and Bud's
Well, said that we left Texas on Saturday--how I lie--we left on Friday and spent Friday night in Roswell. Fortunately, 285 went right by the motel door so we did not have to go back through all that Roswell garishness to move on. We headed out toward Vaughn which is basically an over 50 miles of open space. A lot of wind blown snow and grazing cattle. We'd been this way before and had picked a different route but it was more elevated and we wanted to avoid really heavy snow conditions. Vaughn is another of those towns that once was on the beaten track, had lots of tourists and thrived and is now empty and forlorn. The wintry weather made it even more so, although there is a thriving railroad activity since it is rather centrally located in this area.
One of the things that is so amazing out here, even in thriving towns and cities, is that once you've left the business and residential section you are right back out into no where--the wide open spaces for miles and miles. Bill and I love it but many Easterners are frightened by it. Then again Westerners have told me they feel truly claustrophobic in the east with the trees and mountains just crushing in on them.Route 60 joined us but in time it turned westward and we went with it to Willard. At Laguna del Perro, where one of the chief entertainments is hunting wild historical signs, we looked out over not only the large dry lake beds but also the Manzano's, beyond which lay Belen, home to Gloria and Bud.
I thought I remembered a Hotel Willard, where we had eaten lunch last year. I guess NOT. Their Church is very well kept, however. Within a few miles we reached MountainAir which I had many times steered clear of since the name implied heights I was not willing to climb. Last year, Bud assured me there were no sheer drops to worry about so we did leave by this route out to Clovis. Things look different from opposite directions but the hotel I remembered was here and it is the Hotel Shaffer. The stained glass is original to the building but it has been redone inside and Paco's Cafe is a large open room with a large fireplace and scattered tables. I took pictures of it last year.
Since we were close to Belen but past lunchtime and not far from dinner we decided to just have a small snack to tide us over, having eaten nothing since breakfast. I ordered an Indian taco--fry bread topped with all the usual suspects. I expected a taco sized plate--uh,uh--it was a flat bread the size of a dinner plate with tons of stuff. Bill had some kind of salad and his, too, could have fed an army. Delicious and unbelievably inexpensive--his was $7.95 and mine a dollar cheaper! We finished as much as we could without feeling stuffed but boy it was just too much!
Love the fact that the railroad station is pink and only handles freight! Like the outfitter building, too. It is just a cute little town and with three historical missions nearby it is able to manage through the winter doldrums of few visitors.
On we wove through the mesas and mountains to the other side where there was no snow. Continued through the valley on route 47 which cuts diagonally to Belen avoiding Bernardo and arrived at their home with a mini-fridge filled with almost 3 lbs of good Vermont Cabot Extra Sharp Cheddar cheese which you just cannot find in the West. The only stuff they have is that awful yellow orange cheddar from who knows where. If Cabot is sometimes in a co-op it is outrageously expensive.
At that point, I put away my camera. We had a wonderful reunion--I gave Gloria a rednek wine glass--a stemmed Ball Jar--she and Bud just loved it. She and I retired into her newly reorganized scrap room and just caught up on tons of topics that the ladies can probably figure out--kids, grandkids, scrapping, friends, what we've been up to since last year. The guys were listening to some TV show and catching up too. Lots of laughter reverberating from all directions.
Gloria grilled some rib eyes and the grill went aflame. Bud thought the steaks were charcoal but as it turned out they were not only NOT burned to a crisp but were cooked to perfection--medium rare. She couldn't duplicate that with all the flame and activity if she tried! LOL Add to that a great burgundy, baked potatoes and Gloria's fabulous salad and it was a feast for the gods and goddesses, of course. Just a great time!
One of the things that is so amazing out here, even in thriving towns and cities, is that once you've left the business and residential section you are right back out into no where--the wide open spaces for miles and miles. Bill and I love it but many Easterners are frightened by it. Then again Westerners have told me they feel truly claustrophobic in the east with the trees and mountains just crushing in on them.Route 60 joined us but in time it turned westward and we went with it to Willard. At Laguna del Perro, where one of the chief entertainments is hunting wild historical signs, we looked out over not only the large dry lake beds but also the Manzano's, beyond which lay Belen, home to Gloria and Bud.
I thought I remembered a Hotel Willard, where we had eaten lunch last year. I guess NOT. Their Church is very well kept, however. Within a few miles we reached MountainAir which I had many times steered clear of since the name implied heights I was not willing to climb. Last year, Bud assured me there were no sheer drops to worry about so we did leave by this route out to Clovis. Things look different from opposite directions but the hotel I remembered was here and it is the Hotel Shaffer. The stained glass is original to the building but it has been redone inside and Paco's Cafe is a large open room with a large fireplace and scattered tables. I took pictures of it last year.
Since we were close to Belen but past lunchtime and not far from dinner we decided to just have a small snack to tide us over, having eaten nothing since breakfast. I ordered an Indian taco--fry bread topped with all the usual suspects. I expected a taco sized plate--uh,uh--it was a flat bread the size of a dinner plate with tons of stuff. Bill had some kind of salad and his, too, could have fed an army. Delicious and unbelievably inexpensive--his was $7.95 and mine a dollar cheaper! We finished as much as we could without feeling stuffed but boy it was just too much!
Love the fact that the railroad station is pink and only handles freight! Like the outfitter building, too. It is just a cute little town and with three historical missions nearby it is able to manage through the winter doldrums of few visitors.
On we wove through the mesas and mountains to the other side where there was no snow. Continued through the valley on route 47 which cuts diagonally to Belen avoiding Bernardo and arrived at their home with a mini-fridge filled with almost 3 lbs of good Vermont Cabot Extra Sharp Cheddar cheese which you just cannot find in the West. The only stuff they have is that awful yellow orange cheddar from who knows where. If Cabot is sometimes in a co-op it is outrageously expensive.
At that point, I put away my camera. We had a wonderful reunion--I gave Gloria a rednek wine glass--a stemmed Ball Jar--she and Bud just loved it. She and I retired into her newly reorganized scrap room and just caught up on tons of topics that the ladies can probably figure out--kids, grandkids, scrapping, friends, what we've been up to since last year. The guys were listening to some TV show and catching up too. Lots of laughter reverberating from all directions.
Gloria grilled some rib eyes and the grill went aflame. Bud thought the steaks were charcoal but as it turned out they were not only NOT burned to a crisp but were cooked to perfection--medium rare. She couldn't duplicate that with all the flame and activity if she tried! LOL Add to that a great burgundy, baked potatoes and Gloria's fabulous salad and it was a feast for the gods and goddesses, of course. Just a great time!
The Beginning of a New Mexico Sojourn
Saturday found us headed toward New Mexico through West Texas, which is truly oil country. It is here that are found Midland and Odessa, two of the more well-known oil cities, though we did not go through them this year. We started the day, cold and rainy and worked our way through LaMesa, home to the Golden Tornadoes and Seminole, which was a town that served as the gateway to Texas cotton fields. When I saw the first gin sign I thought, well, no junipers around, must be a cotton gin. Only a few minutes earlier I'd asked Bill what he thought would be planted in the fields, some of which were groomed and awaiting seed or seedlings. He thought perhaps sorghum but the gin and, then, some fields with leftover last year's crop answered the question. Somehow, I've never associated West Texas with those cottonfields back home when I was just a little baby and my Momma rocked me in my cradle! LOL
At Hobbs we entered New Mexico, The Land of Enchantment. It really is a magical place. We have been all over it except the mountains around Taos--the weather is always treacherous there when we come out. I do think that I may have Bill convinced to do a Fall trip next. I have my fingers and toes crossed.
I have sent a NM map as a separate picture for those of you who are geographically interested in seeing where we roamed. If you have followed us in other years, you also will have a chance to see where we've gone before. As I'd mentioned before I somehow have managed to leave the maps for this whole area of the country at home. As a result we are always on the lookout for an outlet for the State's official transportation map. In Hobbs, as it had been in Texas, the chamber of commerce was once more the place to go.
I don't remember the towns being so competitive with the beauty and size of their welcome signs last year. They may have done this in 2010--the centennial year--when we were detained in Oklahoma and stopped our Westward path. Last year we were on Interstates quite often because we entered through Colorado and through heavy snows.
By the time we reached Livingston the temperature had dropped to 32 and the rain turned to dry snow. By the time we reached Tatum we were quite cold and hungry and decided to stop at Tiny's. I ordered what was listed as a steak sandwich on Texas toast. I was tricked--Chicken Fried Cube Steak drowned in pallid white milk gravy!!! How Betsy laughed when I told her. I mentioned the gravy and she replied knowingly--that's how it's served. It is just as gross as I'd always thought and is right up there with biscuits and gravy as two of the most abominable economical American gastronomic inventions. They go down hard and then sit in the bottom of your stomach like a pile of lead. Just AWFUL!!!!!
The street signs in Tatum are beautiful--I couldn't get them all. The fellow across the street made some of them--he also owns Tiny's. He was gone to lunch--but WAS NOT at Tiny's--and would not be back until 2ish. It was only about 1230 so we couldn't wait. I've marked it as a place to which to return--I love the iron sculptures and have just the log wall on which to place it. It would look nice with Katie's structural steel Life Is Good.
And so we moved on along the long empty road of the LLano Estacado. Though the activity has changed a great deal and the wild life has been seriously depleted and fences and roads erected, I could not help but believe that the area's appearance hasn't changed terribly much. Between the weather and unchanging landscape the ride was almost hypnotic.
And then we were passed by a truck which passed the car in front of us. Another car passed us and the fellow in front and pulled in behind the truck. It was interesting to watch the oreo sandwich before us as the flashing lights came on and the truck was pulled over. That'll teach him to drive about 90 on a road posted 75! Exciting! Easily amused at times on these long stretches.
This is the first time we've approached Roswell in this direction but it was so cold and miserable we just didn't feel like taking the time to check out the bottomless lakes. At our motel the brochures for the park showed some lovely blue lakes beneath equally heavenly skies. Not today!
A few miles outside Roswell, however, we thought the Bitter Lake Wildlife Refuge might have a few cranes and ducks and herons to admire. On such a cold wintry day the two guides were thrilled to see us. Most every bird has headed North but the ranger focused a telescope on a red tailed hawk who was hunting from a tree right outside the visitors' center. I went out on the deck to take his picture--the wind was just howling and blowing me and the camera around. When using a telephoto lens any movement is magnified, which is why the shot where he is looking at me is blurry and he is almost out of the frame. Once he'd decided I wasn't a threat--just one of those dumb bird-watching types,I couldn't get him to look at me again!
We decided to take the 7 mile drive despite the lack of numerous birds. There is something very restful on these refuges and after a somewhat difficult day it was a perfect way to de-stress
Went back by the Pecan orchard we'd passed on the way in--here were saplings. Seems it takes a really long time for a pecan tree to mature and bear a crop. Not sure how long--need to research that.
Downtown Roswell is just so touristy--a Space Alien Museum and RESEARCH CENTER!!!!! is probably the most prominent in an old movie theatre. There are so many more gift shops, artifact stores etc. We just try to ignore it all and move out of the center of town, past the beautiful courthouse and out to the more sedate and sensible outskirts. The motel, here, is the only one that provides complimentary water. Probably should have worried that aliens had spiked it with something but banished such thoughts from my mind and drank a bottle. Feel fine, so far, three days later.
We went to eat right next door at Tia Juana's Mexican Cafe. Lovely patio on which to eat but not in 32 degrees. Just loved the migrant worker truck in the parking lot. We gringos entered and loved Tia's picture on her menu--as well as the play on the name of the cafe. Brandon, our bartender, recommended Chile Verde so that is what we ordered with a side of Charro Beans. Delicious. Dos Equis on tap and a perfect meal. Brandon moved down from Santa Fe. The topic at the bar as we arrived was the NFL destination of Peyton--after resolving that issue--LOL we talked of snowfall, Taos and Santa Fe in winter, snowboarding and Brandon's goal of becoming a chef since he prefers cooking to all restaurant jobs followed by bartending. He is quite personable and apparently liked us too since he gave us four beers free. Bill always gives a big tip in cases like that---he is always an excellent tipper but ups it--says he'd rather pay the worker than the house. LOL We then made our way the long distance home to the Comfort Inn and a bit of TV before bed.
At Hobbs we entered New Mexico, The Land of Enchantment. It really is a magical place. We have been all over it except the mountains around Taos--the weather is always treacherous there when we come out. I do think that I may have Bill convinced to do a Fall trip next. I have my fingers and toes crossed.
I have sent a NM map as a separate picture for those of you who are geographically interested in seeing where we roamed. If you have followed us in other years, you also will have a chance to see where we've gone before. As I'd mentioned before I somehow have managed to leave the maps for this whole area of the country at home. As a result we are always on the lookout for an outlet for the State's official transportation map. In Hobbs, as it had been in Texas, the chamber of commerce was once more the place to go.
I don't remember the towns being so competitive with the beauty and size of their welcome signs last year. They may have done this in 2010--the centennial year--when we were detained in Oklahoma and stopped our Westward path. Last year we were on Interstates quite often because we entered through Colorado and through heavy snows.
By the time we reached Livingston the temperature had dropped to 32 and the rain turned to dry snow. By the time we reached Tatum we were quite cold and hungry and decided to stop at Tiny's. I ordered what was listed as a steak sandwich on Texas toast. I was tricked--Chicken Fried Cube Steak drowned in pallid white milk gravy!!! How Betsy laughed when I told her. I mentioned the gravy and she replied knowingly--that's how it's served. It is just as gross as I'd always thought and is right up there with biscuits and gravy as two of the most abominable economical American gastronomic inventions. They go down hard and then sit in the bottom of your stomach like a pile of lead. Just AWFUL!!!!!
The street signs in Tatum are beautiful--I couldn't get them all. The fellow across the street made some of them--he also owns Tiny's. He was gone to lunch--but WAS NOT at Tiny's--and would not be back until 2ish. It was only about 1230 so we couldn't wait. I've marked it as a place to which to return--I love the iron sculptures and have just the log wall on which to place it. It would look nice with Katie's structural steel Life Is Good.
And so we moved on along the long empty road of the LLano Estacado. Though the activity has changed a great deal and the wild life has been seriously depleted and fences and roads erected, I could not help but believe that the area's appearance hasn't changed terribly much. Between the weather and unchanging landscape the ride was almost hypnotic.
And then we were passed by a truck which passed the car in front of us. Another car passed us and the fellow in front and pulled in behind the truck. It was interesting to watch the oreo sandwich before us as the flashing lights came on and the truck was pulled over. That'll teach him to drive about 90 on a road posted 75! Exciting! Easily amused at times on these long stretches.
This is the first time we've approached Roswell in this direction but it was so cold and miserable we just didn't feel like taking the time to check out the bottomless lakes. At our motel the brochures for the park showed some lovely blue lakes beneath equally heavenly skies. Not today!
A few miles outside Roswell, however, we thought the Bitter Lake Wildlife Refuge might have a few cranes and ducks and herons to admire. On such a cold wintry day the two guides were thrilled to see us. Most every bird has headed North but the ranger focused a telescope on a red tailed hawk who was hunting from a tree right outside the visitors' center. I went out on the deck to take his picture--the wind was just howling and blowing me and the camera around. When using a telephoto lens any movement is magnified, which is why the shot where he is looking at me is blurry and he is almost out of the frame. Once he'd decided I wasn't a threat--just one of those dumb bird-watching types,I couldn't get him to look at me again!
We decided to take the 7 mile drive despite the lack of numerous birds. There is something very restful on these refuges and after a somewhat difficult day it was a perfect way to de-stress
Went back by the Pecan orchard we'd passed on the way in--here were saplings. Seems it takes a really long time for a pecan tree to mature and bear a crop. Not sure how long--need to research that.
Downtown Roswell is just so touristy--a Space Alien Museum and RESEARCH CENTER!!!!! is probably the most prominent in an old movie theatre. There are so many more gift shops, artifact stores etc. We just try to ignore it all and move out of the center of town, past the beautiful courthouse and out to the more sedate and sensible outskirts. The motel, here, is the only one that provides complimentary water. Probably should have worried that aliens had spiked it with something but banished such thoughts from my mind and drank a bottle. Feel fine, so far, three days later.
We went to eat right next door at Tia Juana's Mexican Cafe. Lovely patio on which to eat but not in 32 degrees. Just loved the migrant worker truck in the parking lot. We gringos entered and loved Tia's picture on her menu--as well as the play on the name of the cafe. Brandon, our bartender, recommended Chile Verde so that is what we ordered with a side of Charro Beans. Delicious. Dos Equis on tap and a perfect meal. Brandon moved down from Santa Fe. The topic at the bar as we arrived was the NFL destination of Peyton--after resolving that issue--LOL we talked of snowfall, Taos and Santa Fe in winter, snowboarding and Brandon's goal of becoming a chef since he prefers cooking to all restaurant jobs followed by bartending. He is quite personable and apparently liked us too since he gave us four beers free. Bill always gives a big tip in cases like that---he is always an excellent tipper but ups it--says he'd rather pay the worker than the house. LOL We then made our way the long distance home to the Comfort Inn and a bit of TV before bed.
Friday, March 9, 2012
We Made It-- We Are In New Mexico!
Today is a short post-left Big Spring,Texas by 9am and headed to New Mexico. Will fill you in on the details in a few days. For now know that we hit snow and 32 degree weather. We do have studded tires though it wasn't necessary at all--this snow is so dry it just blows away. Staying in Roswell tonight so if we don't get back in contact by mid week you'll know the aliens took us to replace their lost citizens! We are going to be off line for a bit since we will be with our friends, Gloria and Bud, in Belen for at least a night or two. Too much fun to use the computer and too busy. Until we're on the road again--you've got time to catch up if you'd like. Talk to you soon!
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