Woke up this morning after sleeping with my flashlight close to hand since TWC last night kept predicting thunderstorms all night, some of them severe, and issuing a tornado warning for Biloxi until around 9PM. Fortunately, no tornado, no rain for that matter. The thunderstorms were to continue through this morning but we never hit ANY rain until Louisiana and then it was merely drizzle. Not complaining, as a matter of fact we've been very lucky. There are warnings out now for Panama City back to Jacksonville--we were only there a day or two ago. And the horrendous damage and death these storms have brought it terrifying. Meteorologically speaking it is not really surprising that such tornadoes are forming. Yesterday I was suffering from the heat of almost 80 degrees with incredible humidity. The walls and floors at Fort Gaines were sweating as was Linda's little cooler that we are using once more. Today, we woke up to 59 degrees and no humidity. Such a rapid drop in temperature produces incredible convection currents and the earth's spin just whirls those masses around insanely.
TWC is saying that the temp in Burlington Vt is going to be 55; 29 in Montpelier and 34 in Rutland on Town Meeting Day! Insane!
But back to Mississippi and the chilly but refreshing opal morning in Biloxi. Just as I did two years ago, I was so moved by the evidence of hurricane damage along this highway, particularly in Gulfport and Long Beach. Biloxi was hit as well but these two communities were so devastated. Every home along the strip is surrounded by beautiful live oaks with their long outward spreading limbs. So, as one drives along and sees a gathering of them there is the expectation of a lovely home among them. In many cases, that is still the situation but in far too many places the rubble of slabs or stairs that lead to nowhere or front walks that just end mark where a home once stood. If you aren't that observant the huge for sale signs would certainly grab your attention. Some of the destruction predates Katrina but most of it is the result of her gentle touch. Sad, sad, sad. It is so incredibly amazing that somehow those oaks know how to come through the horror intact. They must be far more flexible than they appear and just roll with the winds. Unbelievable.
Although the winds were nowhere the strength of a hurricane there was still a rather good inland blow and so we decided to forgo the joy of crossing Bay St Louis on that lovely camel's hump bridge and we turned inland just before Pass Christian, another town almost entirely wiped off the coast. We grabbed I 10 just so we'd get to the info center in Louisiana for a map. It was soooooo exciting to cross the Pearl and be in Cajun country at last.
Milly, the info lady, was very thrilled to have us headed to her home grounds--Abita Springs. We planned to go to the brewery for the tour but she told us the history of the waters in Abita Springs and the Choctaw association. So, when we arrived in town we went to the museum and found that at one time Abita Springs was to Baton Rouge and New Orleans what Saratoga Springs was to New York City and Albany. A place to escape the heat of city life and a place to take the healthy waters. Sounded very familiar. In addition, we found that the brewery is outside town now, since it has gotten quite large but the original site is right on the traffic circle that is truly the hub of the town--everything is built right off the circle! So we went to the Abita Springs Brew Pub--ex-brewery -- and had lunch with a couple of the brews. I had a glass of Restoration Ale, a hoppy brew that I really enjoyed. ASB developed it in honor of the work being done after Katrina and part of the price goes to the cause. I also had a glass of Golden which is my favorite. Bill stuck with his IPA. I had a bowl of chicken-andouille gumbo---oh, heaven. No hot sauce or seasonings needed. And I never adulterate it with crackers or heaven forbid, bread. I know crackers are traditional but I like the broth brothy. Does that make sense? Bill had a Reuben---a very traditional Cajun or is it Creole sandwich?
A young couple sitting next to us shared a bottle of strawberry harvest lager. We got talking a bit and they let me have the last little bit from the bottle. How delicious. It is the golden with strawberries added --it has the aroma and very slight taste of fresh strawberries. Apparently, they also do a pecan soak when they are in season and some other that the barmaid said three times and I just could not get what she meant. Anyway, these aren't seasonals which are on tap--they are harvest available only when these fruits are harvested and the beer is only available in bottles.
In our conversation we found that the couple had spent last night in Biloxi also at the Beau Rivage--for dancing. Not gambling--not, she assured us, that she has any thing against gambling. Just they don't like to lose money that way. The young man had just finished 8 weeks of school in Montgomery and she flew up to meet him. They are now driving back home to San Antonio. While they enjoyed speaking with us I could tell they really were into each other so with a smile I said it was lovely to meet them. They wished us a safe trip and we did the same.
After stopping at the small market for a six pack of the strawberry lager we continued to Amite where we will spend tonight. We are going to head to St Francisville tomorrow but we have to decide if we are going to head to Lafayette-New Iberia. I hope so but we do need to go across Texas to New Mexico and we want to have some time to spend there.
Acoma and back to Canyon de Chelly for a jeep ride and, of course, the Bosque. There is no way we'll just fly across Texas either, since I will pick a different East-West route on farm roads than we've taken before. Must give it serious thought.
The Cabot Cheese is making the trip well so far and I found another little gift for Gloria! So New Mexico is very important for lots of reasons.
We will eat some of our veggies and cheese and I'll have a glass of Gewurtz and retire. Will let you know what goody I buy at Grandmother's Buttons. I'm in the market for a pair of earrings to match my bracelet and necklace but we shall see. For now, we'll keep an eye on weather and hope and pray our luck continues. Also that our friends in NSB just south of Daytona fare well, too. Hernando doesn't seem to be threatened. Just such scary stuff. Stay safe and warm all. Bon Soir.
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